That is very true, and im surprised for sure. Best of luck with the valve.

 

from what I have read and personal experience, the forge rs bov works better with larger turbos that build boost slower then the stock turbos do. I have also heard of people switching out the spring to a softer one and it has helped with the smaller turbos.

 

I heard alot of people do the single spring mod on the forge too...Ttp recomends this to their customers when they buy and install it..Also almost all bov slightly flutter a bit my tial does it too only on low low boost like 6 to 10 psi after that i get one clean blow off and i think the tial holds boost the best of tried like 4 different ones..

 

yea i think its kinda designed more for big turbos, thats why i bought it. i have an fp red sitting in my closet waiting to go on. but i never expected it to be horrible to drive with on the stock turbo.

 

when i talked to the guy at forge, he said i shouldnt be having that problem and he thinks the valve is just jacked up. he also said that the rs is not a very "customer-friendly" valve to work on, unless you've done it before. so they're sending me a new one and hopefully the problem will go away. this thing flutters at 2 psi, it flutters at 20 psi, it flutters at partial throttle, and it flutters at full throttle. something's not right here haha

 

Did u even try backen it out all the way and give it a slight turn on the soft mode????

 

ive had it adjusted pretty much every way i could. never made a very noticable change

 

Happened to me as well. I wanted to hold boost better, but I ended up putting the mr dv back on and had it crushed. I like it much more this way. Had a weird issue that kept my throttle planted for a sec even after letting off the gas. I tightened it, loosened it, no help so I said that's enough and sold it.

 

thats a new problem i noticed when i had it adjusted as tight as it could go

 

Get tial bov your better off cause i see your gonna be running a red soon and your probably gonna run high boost.

 

Let us know how the new one works out for ya!

 

I had a forge valve and tried every possible combination of single/double spring available (came with 3 different springs) all with no luck. The valve would studder studder studder on the freeway so much I didn't want to drive the car for any length of time. Then it got cold, and it started to stick open, I think that happened 2-3 times. I worked with buschur (who I got the valve from) and forge for a long time, disassembled the thing so many times the allen heads started to strip on the screws. Forge offered to buy it back but never made good on the deal, so I tossed the POS.

I know a lot of people have good luck with them, but a lot of people come back later with similar stories to mine. IMHO, a metal MR/IX bov w/ a slight crush on it (or mega crush if you run over 28psi), tial, APS, or synapse are the only way to go.

 

I have to agree with him here 100% well said...

 

i have had 2 in the past, 1 on the car now and absolutely no issues with any of them. The only thing i couldnt do was be cruising in 5th gear and slightly lift off of the pedal, it would surge then for sure. All i had to do is if i was cruising, i knew that if i needed to come off of the gas, come off of it all the way and then resume normal driving. Became 2nd nature after about a week. As for a tial or these valves not holding boost.... my last car ran 30 psi all day long, still does with its new owner and this valve holds it like a champ.

 

Considering the fact that the guy I talked to at forge is giving me a new one to try out....im gonna give it another chance. If I dont have any luck with that one, they said they would give me credit if i wanted to buy anything else there, or give me my money back.

I'd love to run a tial, but i dont want to get into speed density or vta under any circumstance. I drive the car every day so i dont wanna do speed density and vta without speed density makes the drivability horrible doesnt it?