Do you have the 9 psi spring on your Tial? Hence, not opening below 9 psi. Basically, whatever spring you get, 9, 11, 15 psi, it is designed not to open below that spring pressure.

 

very good point, but i have to drive the car as it is until i put the red on the car. just trying to make the time driving it in between NOT SUCK quite as much lol. i wish i could just throw the turbo on now but i wanna do a timing belt before i put all the parts on and get it tuned. I dont have the room, or the tools so a friend of mine who works at a local shop is going to do it there. I just have to wait until he gets time. its irritating looking at all the parts i have sitting every day, but patience is key i guess

 

I have the Forge RS and I'm on the stock turbo atm. It was an adventure getting it dialed in but it has been great since. Mine just didn't seem like it was adjusting correctly.

When I was removing it to check it out I found one of the Inlet/Outlet connections was actually loose from the valve. I think when I was installing the thing I was twisting the valve around inside a hose and was actually threading it out.

Sure enough, I ended up tightening it all up and then going back to hitting 5th and adjusting the valve. After a bazillion runs to get it dialed in it finally works flawlessly. No flutter or abnormal driveability issues.

Sounds like Forge is taking care of you so far, let us know how it turns out! IMO, I think its pretty damn cool of Forge to step up like this for even a customer who purchased a used product.

 

I'll have to make mine softer per a few recommendations in this thread. I have a Forge RS BOV as well. The BOV flutters if I give it about 10 lbs. of boost and feather the throttle. It's either on or off. That's how I drive but I'll soften it up to see if it eliminates or reduces the flutter.

 

.... Except the spring pressure in the BOV has NOTHING to do with boost.

maybe you should only give advice about your bov.






The spring in a pull type bov is based on vac at idle. Nothing more. Dont let someone bull**** you.

 

thats cool you got everything worked out with it. i wish i could say the same, but i've went over everything i did 10000 times and everythings on right, clamps are tight, everything. its gotten slightly better but its like as loose at it will go and its still fluttery.

as far as forge goes, they have the most awesome customer service of anyone i've ever dealt with. highly recommended, its a nice thing to know that you're making a secure transaction with a company who will do anything to take care of you. that is how you get a customer to keep coming back. says a lot about a company imo

 

from what you said, i think making it softer will definitely help you out. it helped reduce the flutter on this one but its still not right at all. i still cant say enough about how awesome forge is being about this whole issue

 

Whatever anyone says, it is a push-type based on how it works. Boost pressure in the pipe DOES push on the valve face's surface are to aid in opening it.

It may be based on idle, per instructions on how to setup. Don't you think it has an effect on boost pressure opening and not just vacuum? Don't you think spring pre-load will affect how it opens against boost pressure in the pipe when coupled with vacuum?

Just trying to inject some logic in here to try to help out someone minimize their symptoms.

 

And the vac line from the manifold supplies equal amounts of pressure to allow the gate to remain closed. the area in the bov on the top side of the diaphragm is about 2X the size of the area of the valve face, so you have double the press on the top plus the spring pressure not allowing the bov to open under boost

http://highboostforum.com/forum/show...-your-TiAL-BOV


Learn. Then type.




Dont worry -- Well get bobs problem figured out with the new forge. If not -- movin to the Tial Recirc.

 

Wow this is turning into a retarded arguement. The "11psi" or "9psi" spring are rated so, because that is the required difference between the charge pipe it is on and your intake mani (where you ran the vac line) for the valve to actuate.

Yes they also correlate those #'s to how much vacuum you pull at idle too...

 

Ive had both the RS and the APS. I hated my RS when i had it. Fluttered all the time even with all the adjustments. Drivability was ok. I ended up keeping my APS and selling the RS. APS drives so much better and I have no complaints at all.

And on my setup, I run 28psi on stock VIII turbo.

 

I don't want this to turn into a pissing match. Bottom line is that, as long as both guys are re-circ'd, they need to run a lighter spring. Cut your spring, or whatever to get a lighter pre-load.

But I have to give the disclaimer that, based on my testing with these BOVs, there is a fine line between just the right light spring, and too light of a spring. You may encounter a valve that floats and doesn't seat fast enough if the spring is too light.








This is the last of it, PM or call me if you want to discuss further.

Yes, under boost, the BOV stays shut, but what happens with the quick switch to vacuum when there's vac on top and boost on the valve face? Are you telling me that boost pressure isn't acting on that valve face, and then against the spring pre-load (9 psi, 11 psi, etc.)



I design BOVs, I know how their product works, that is why I designed against it.

Re-circ'd or not, it will still work the same, the guts haven't changed.

 

So your saying my 11 psi spring will not "vent" if I make a quick shift at 8-9 psi?




Synapse - Come over the the HBF where moderation is non existent. We will discuss this topic openly and publicly.

 

No, and that also depends where and when you are measuring this "8-9 psi". When you lift the throttle, the intake mani goes to vacuum very quickly. I SAID THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN YOUR MANI AND CHARGE PIPE. So if you are WOT running 30 psi and lift the throttle enough to allow the DIFFERENCE to become at least 11 psi (using the 11 psi spring), ie. like ~19 psi in your mani, it will actuate...

So in your scenario if you are getting 8 to 9 psi in your manifold and let off the throttle, as soon as your mani becomes -3 to -4 psi the bov will actuate.

I've noticed on my logs that my car pulls ~-10 psi at idle and ~-13 psi on decel in gear with my foot off the throttle. And the 11 psi spring from tial was too stiff for me as I was getting the "flutter dump"; and yes I was using the proper size reinforced vac line straight to my manifold.

I'm not trying to stir sht here, just saying my idea on it....

 

going back to stock myself for driveability issues