Dirty or not I think it looks great! I've been anxious to see this car make an 8sec pass. Good luck with it this year!

 

Those black Earl's vacuum lines are really nice looking. Could you post a link or provide the specific part # you used?

 

Never a fun job, I think I spent probably 50 hours on mine. I can't stand seeing wiring in the engine bay though and it makes things A LOT more simple looking. Always funny though, the more simple a car looks, the more time and money that's been spent on it.

braided nylon tubing and military grade heat shrink tubing is your friend.
If you can source the factory connector pins from some where, it would be a lot easier to do as well. You can run the main harness right out the firewall and behind the intake manifold, eliminating the vast majority of what you see. Just have to shorten all the wires to do it. I'd love to get the fuse block out of the engine bay too, that would really clean things up.

I've seen a lot of the push lock stuff get melted off. What's the highest temp hose you can get for those fittings?

 

The fittings are metal.... the hose is the part you have to worry about. Don't quote me.. i tried looking through some threads. I'm tired. I'd guess 350F

 

David,

I have a ton of pictures that might help you with the wiring harness, and some ideas on how to re-do it all. My pictures can certainly help you get a game plan on how to tackle it..

 

The Driver will be Trent Again ?

 

How come this is the only Company with such eagerness to actually conduct TESTS without having 'a clients results'?

 

^^ thats BR for you!

Amazing job guys! Awaiting results.... Best of luck!


Omar

 

Awsome project.Good luck.

 

psphinx81, I am using a 2.1 now because I need the RPM of a 2 liter and I needed a stronger block so I could get away from running a hard blocked 2 liter. The 4G64 block is stronger and won't split at high hp.

 

hokirro, yes, you read right. I want to use the car for some auto crosses, if nothing else Winged Warrior and the DSM/EVO Shootout. It will have to be run on wastegate boost pressure only to keep it under control at all. The suspension that's on it has proven to work well for autocross so I'll stick with it. I'm not trying to build a national level autocross car out of it, just trying to keep it responsive enough to make it usable.

appauld, I did dyno testing last winter on the stock ported TB vs. a 3" TB and 3" upper i/c pipe. There were NO gains what-so-ever, only losses in the low/mid range.

Hostile EVO, I don't know what you posted about your wife because I can't seem to find it........but I wish I could see it! haha I'd make a special run of thongs just to see pics! haha

R/T,

The valve cover fitting, I drilled the stock hole out to 3/8" and then simply pressed the new 3/8" tube into the hole. Been doing this for a long time, nicer hose routing. To bend that SS line buy a Rigid Tool tubing bender, they are about $70 for the 3/8", a retard can bend them then.

The dual stage is simple. We use a Parker 3 way solenoid. Typically it is closed and the boost is controlled with our inline boost controller. Then when you flip the switch to high the solenoid switches to our other inline controller to the high settings. I've also run the controller into the EMS and go from low to high by vehicle speed. It is the best dual stage I've ever run/used/tried. Simple and effective.

That hose is Earl's prolite hose in -4 and -6. The hose clamps are SS Oetiker clamps, best clamp I've ever used and no way in hell they come off or lose. The hose and hose ends are push lock with the addition of the clamp. There is no way to use an actual AN hose end on the stock fuel pressure regulator, Tial BOV or wastegate. I like the way this looks and if I never had problems losing a standard NAPA vacuum hose with a ziptie on it, this has to be world's better. Simple, clean and light.

 

Here is the hose I used:

http://www.holley.com/350004ERL.asp

Burst strength of 1400 psi
Operating temp from -40 to +300F

Here are the hose ends I used:

http://www.holley.com/AT700104ERL.asp

I spoke with the guys at Earl's and they recommended using the Oetiker clamps for what I was doing actually, as a side note.

 

Earls makes a 10x1.00mm AN fitting that works perfectly on the TiAL BOV's and Wastegates. I've used them several times. That way you can use a hose end!

For the FPR you're right. If you use an Aeromotive, Kinsler, Fuel Lab, Magnaflow, etc FPR you can adapt the 1/8"NPT to -3 (it was tough to find, but I found it!)... or drill and tap it to the next large NPT size and adapt it to -4AN.

Interesting on the press in. Do you use any adhesive to keep the fitting in? Epoxy? E120HP?

Are you going to be using Tephra v7 on this? Or are you going to be using the Vipec? The v7 has some really nice boost control with feedforward closed loop control. Gear based boost control with adjustable breakpoints for RPM

 

ONE MORE QUESTION....

Are you using a NEW 4g64 block or a used one?

If you're using a used one...

Are you boring it to 87mm from the git? Or are you boring it to the smallest bore size that allows the hole to be round and then making a custom piston to fit it? This would be done to keep the sleeve as thick as possible when combating core shift in the 4G64 block.

ALSO, (deep breath)
Which year, make, model are you getting your 4G64 block from?


Thanks for answering all of the questions Dave. I need to call you some time and burn up some of your anytime minutes.

 

There is absolutely NO need for an aftermarket regulator on an EVO. I've swapped them and we've run countless others and had billet adapters made to bolt up. I have a shelf full of them, because there is no need for them, even after making them I can't bring myself to selling them. Yes, I know there are banjo fittings to go to AN, we have them here and use them on our turbo kits. I guess bottom line is, I like how what I did looks, it was cheap, light and easy. Obviously after building cars for 21+ years we've done our share of AN hoses/hose ends and such and they are all mostly a PITA. For this purpose this is the nicest way of doing it for ME.

No adhesive on the fitting in the head, it's tight as hell. No on the V7, definetely not for this car. Stand alone only on this car, either the Haltech or AEM S2. Right now the car has the Haltech on it. The manual controller is all I want to run, call me stubborn.

Engine started with a used block. I ALWAYS keep the bore size as small as possible, regardless of what engine I am building, over boring for no reason is stupidity. Check with your engine parts supplier (located in Canada) for the block recommendations