David Buschur's RS/BADBISH 2010 build
David Buschur's RS/BADBISH 2010 build
It's been a LONG time coming and the car has sat for a long time, since around September. Dan and Steve finally got started on it though and the car's been in the building about a week now.
I'm updating and changing a lot of things on the car this year and of course getting ready for more testing.
To start the car was brought in and the engine was pulled out and taken apart. Here's a few shots with the engine out of the car:
Here's a shot of the old engine:
As some of you may remember at the end of last year while road testing the car and getting ready to head to the track with the Haltech on the car I heard a horrible pounding noise coming from the engine. I ASSumed it was a rod bearing and parked the car. Well once the engine was removed and taken apart we found that every rod/piston and bearing looked like new. The other thing we noticed was that some of the main bolts had come lose. Now don't get worried because I decided the last time I built an engine for the car I was going to use a main bolt instead of the ARP studs we typically use. The factory EVO main bolts were used and apparently it was not a wise choice. The funny thing is, even with atleast 5 of the 10 main bolts backiing out the main bearings were still in perfect condition. Blows my mind actually and the only thing I can think of is the noise I was hearing was the actual crank lose in the block.
Here is the new BR 2.1 full wet block engine on the engine stand getting ready to be re-installed:
The new combination as far as the engine goes is nearly identical to the last. We made some changes to our 2.1 liter pistons since the first sets were made and beyond that it is identical. BR Stage 3 head. GRP aluminum rods. The car will also be going back together with our 272 cams in it and our Forward Facing HTA86 turbo kit on it.
Here's a cool shot of the ID2000 cc injectors and our BR fuel rail:
I decided that since I had cut/moved/bent and experimented on the factory fuel lines/fuel system so many times it was time to just get rid of the fairly mangled factory feed line and replace it with a new one. I bought some 3/8" stainless steel line and ran a new fuel line from the tank to the engine bay. In the engine bay and under the car I bent and routed the line to fit into the factory fuel line clips/brackets. Without pointing it out it would be hard to tell I even did it. The factory line is .315" OD while the new line is .315" ID. I was able to get rid of quite a few bends in the line which will also help with flow. It's just nice to now have a good solid line back on the car after all the experimenting we did to make our double pumpers the best fuel system available for the EVO. Here's a shot of the new line in the engine bay in the factory brackets:
The other project I wanted to get done was to replace all the rubber vacuum lines and hoses on the car. I've run all new Earl's ultra light hoses and where I could used threaded AN fittings on the end. No more cutting zipties or taking clamps off to remove the vacuum hoses. No worries of split lines or leaks either. The only stock line left on the car is for the brake booster and it has a -6 AN hose end on it. Our BR Fabricated intake has all -4 and -6 fittings on it to complete the connections. Our BR Dual Stage boost controller (which is being re-released soon) is pictured with the new lines and AN fittings on it. This came out really sweet! Here's a picture of the boost controller:
Last picture for now is of the engine with the new valve cover coated by Tirado Custom Coatings. The cams sensor cover is also coated the Tirado. I've put in all SS allen head bolts for the valve cover (we offer this is a kit) too. I have to give credit to Emery at STM for the bolt/black valve cover look, I loved it on his car and did one cover in white and one in black. This black just looks too good. Here's a shot of that:
The rear end in the car is original and has a LOT of 1/4 mile and WOT runs on it. It's getting noisey as hell and I have a nice low mileage new one. Tomorrow that's going to go in the car and we are going to finish up the fuel lines from the 3/8" line to the rail and from the line to the double pumper.
Last job is huge, we have to pull the entire dash out of the car to replace the junk heater core. That job sucks and is going to take two days. I want the heater core fixed so we can hook it back up.
Once the car is running again we'll do some videos and it's going to hit the dyno. Then I have some new parts to test, our new cams, a turbo and some header changes. I'm hoping all that will be done over a few days time.
The goal, again, is to put this car into the 8's on DOT approved street tires and do it as a real no bull**** street car. I also want to significantly
improve the low/mid range as much as possible while still increase the top end or atleast keeping it the same. All hefty goals but concentrating on the low/mid range will allow me to autocross the car and I want to be able to do that too.
I'm updating and changing a lot of things on the car this year and of course getting ready for more testing.
To start the car was brought in and the engine was pulled out and taken apart. Here's a few shots with the engine out of the car:
Here's a shot of the old engine:
As some of you may remember at the end of last year while road testing the car and getting ready to head to the track with the Haltech on the car I heard a horrible pounding noise coming from the engine. I ASSumed it was a rod bearing and parked the car. Well once the engine was removed and taken apart we found that every rod/piston and bearing looked like new. The other thing we noticed was that some of the main bolts had come lose. Now don't get worried because I decided the last time I built an engine for the car I was going to use a main bolt instead of the ARP studs we typically use. The factory EVO main bolts were used and apparently it was not a wise choice. The funny thing is, even with atleast 5 of the 10 main bolts backiing out the main bearings were still in perfect condition. Blows my mind actually and the only thing I can think of is the noise I was hearing was the actual crank lose in the block.
Here is the new BR 2.1 full wet block engine on the engine stand getting ready to be re-installed:
The new combination as far as the engine goes is nearly identical to the last. We made some changes to our 2.1 liter pistons since the first sets were made and beyond that it is identical. BR Stage 3 head. GRP aluminum rods. The car will also be going back together with our 272 cams in it and our Forward Facing HTA86 turbo kit on it.
Here's a cool shot of the ID2000 cc injectors and our BR fuel rail:
I decided that since I had cut/moved/bent and experimented on the factory fuel lines/fuel system so many times it was time to just get rid of the fairly mangled factory feed line and replace it with a new one. I bought some 3/8" stainless steel line and ran a new fuel line from the tank to the engine bay. In the engine bay and under the car I bent and routed the line to fit into the factory fuel line clips/brackets. Without pointing it out it would be hard to tell I even did it. The factory line is .315" OD while the new line is .315" ID. I was able to get rid of quite a few bends in the line which will also help with flow. It's just nice to now have a good solid line back on the car after all the experimenting we did to make our double pumpers the best fuel system available for the EVO. Here's a shot of the new line in the engine bay in the factory brackets:
The other project I wanted to get done was to replace all the rubber vacuum lines and hoses on the car. I've run all new Earl's ultra light hoses and where I could used threaded AN fittings on the end. No more cutting zipties or taking clamps off to remove the vacuum hoses. No worries of split lines or leaks either. The only stock line left on the car is for the brake booster and it has a -6 AN hose end on it. Our BR Fabricated intake has all -4 and -6 fittings on it to complete the connections. Our BR Dual Stage boost controller (which is being re-released soon) is pictured with the new lines and AN fittings on it. This came out really sweet! Here's a picture of the boost controller:
Last picture for now is of the engine with the new valve cover coated by Tirado Custom Coatings. The cams sensor cover is also coated the Tirado. I've put in all SS allen head bolts for the valve cover (we offer this is a kit) too. I have to give credit to Emery at STM for the bolt/black valve cover look, I loved it on his car and did one cover in white and one in black. This black just looks too good. Here's a shot of that:
The rear end in the car is original and has a LOT of 1/4 mile and WOT runs on it. It's getting noisey as hell and I have a nice low mileage new one. Tomorrow that's going to go in the car and we are going to finish up the fuel lines from the 3/8" line to the rail and from the line to the double pumper.
Last job is huge, we have to pull the entire dash out of the car to replace the junk heater core. That job sucks and is going to take two days. I want the heater core fixed so we can hook it back up.
Once the car is running again we'll do some videos and it's going to hit the dyno. Then I have some new parts to test, our new cams, a turbo and some header changes. I'm hoping all that will be done over a few days time.
The goal, again, is to put this car into the 8's on DOT approved street tires and do it as a real no bull**** street car. I also want to significantly
improve the low/mid range as much as possible while still increase the top end or atleast keeping it the same. All hefty goals but concentrating on the low/mid range will allow me to autocross the car and I want to be able to do that too.
Thanks again for the opportunity David, I agree the black valve cover looks extremely nice on there.
This is going to be a crazy year for the Bad Bish, can't wait to see it all buttoned up and running.
Glad to be a part of this amazing project!
___
Carlos Tirado
Tirado Custom Coatings
This is going to be a crazy year for the Bad Bish, can't wait to see it all buttoned up and running.
Glad to be a part of this amazing project!
___
Carlos Tirado
Tirado Custom Coatings
Trending Topics
In your last pic it looks like you are using the stock oil feed for the turbo. How do you feel about FP's findings and what is the reason for not getting your feed from the oil filter housing?
No we do not use the stock fuel rail spacers, our fabricated intake manifold uses a long sleeve that spaces the rail from the head.
The ball bearing turbos to not need to have the oil feed line relocated to the oil filter housing because they don't use much oil. There is a very small restrictor in line on all ball bearing turbos. For a journal bearing turbo, like the Red/Black etc., it is best to follow with what FP recommends.
The ball bearing turbos to not need to have the oil feed line relocated to the oil filter housing because they don't use much oil. There is a very small restrictor in line on all ball bearing turbos. For a journal bearing turbo, like the Red/Black etc., it is best to follow with what FP recommends.