i'm about to swap the stock turbo for an fp-red w/oil feed line..

this would be the first turbo swap for me anything i need to know or is it straight forward?

are they any HOW TO'S for turbo swap?

should i take my exhaust mani & turbo out in one piece?

also how does the oil feed line get hooked up?

 

anyone?

 

I installed a Red in my car about 6 months ago. It's pretty easy. I'm sure you'll find something on here with instructions.
As far as useful tips:
• Buy all new bolts, nuts, studs and gaskets
• Spray all nuts and bolts with penetrating oil
• FP has great instructions on their site for the oil feed line, follow them.
• For the oil feed line make sure the banjo fitting and the fitting nut flats meet up. Or when you go and bolt it to the turbo the point of the fitting nut will not allow it to seal on the gasket.
• Buy a bag of M-10 Nord Lock washers (got mine at Fastenal) for the manifold to turbo and turbo to O2 housing. This will keep the nuts and bolts from vibrating loose.

 

Here's the oil line install from FP:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...vo_Oil_Install

Here's some more pertaining to the swap:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-request.html

Pics halfway of the turbo install:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...6k-go-die.html

Some things I did were:
-Spray penetrating fluid on as many bolts in the area as you can when the car is hot
-Hit them again once the car is cool
-Remove/draine the radiator (gives you more room and less risk of damaging the radiator
-drain the oil (basically do an oil change while you're at it)
-Crack the front O-2 sensor loose before you remove the turbo/manifold/O-2 housing
-Once everything's installed and all fluids are replaced, pull the engine/motor fuse
and try starting the car (shouldn't start). 3 times, 10sec intervals each
-After the turbo is primed and you actually start the car, check for leaks and don't worry about all the penetrating fluids burning off
-Use copper anti-sieze on all threads
-Do a boost leak test
-Use a torque wrench and make sure everything is done right

Hope some of this helps. I'm sure there's lots of other helpfull tips out there.

 

Remove the intake and turbo only leaving the hotside on the car, no need to remove anything else.
It's a little tighter job, but saves time.

 

Did you mean to say, "Leave the exhaust manifold on the car"? The "hotside" comes off.

 

There's **** LOAD OF THEM!!!!!!!!!!

SEARCH IS YOUR HOMIE!

 

Its easier to take the mainfold off with the Turbo and taking the HOTSIDE off of your down pipe. So it all comes off easy, lol leaving the hotside on would be point less. Its easier to re install it to the turbo when its off the car.

 

cover your radiator with cardboard before you start

 

pull the radiator all together!! its really simple to do and it makes a **** load more room. the last time i tried to take the o2 housing bolts with it in, the bolt gave and BAM...a nice dent. the turbo is a relatively easy install as long as the bolts are not seized up in the o2 housing like mine were. and that one bolt on the o2 housing closest to the block is a biatch to get out.

 

If you pull the radiator, wich makes it easier dont forget to drain it

 

An fp red exhaust wheel will not fit in a stock hotside, you must swap out the entire turbo.

 

thanks guys will be installing it tomorrow just a little confused on how to set the oil feed line up hopefully it wont be to hard to figure out?!

also i wont really be getting on the car until its tuned but how long could i wait before i get it tuned without harming anything?? two weeks??

thanks guys for all your replies!

 

U can run the car untuned for a lil while just don't run over 20 psi

 

is two three weeks ok with no tune??? "not driving hard but still boosting"