humor me here.

balance shafts get deleted because increased rpm's push the balance shaft bearing speeds past a reliable point and the bearings wear hard. correct?

with the ams kit it still has the rear bearing journal and i imagine it spins 2x as fast as the crank like stock. so all they do is remove the weights off of it, correct?

im a bit new to balance shafts so excuse my ignorance, but how does this help if the bearings and not the weight are the entire problem? the rear shaft (ams or stub) are driven off the oil pump isnt it? and the stock front shaft is the only one driven off the belt? so the front spins faster than the rear? i think im getting it now.

 

balance shafts add rotational weight to the engine assembly. I removed mine to reduce that weight (quicker reving, even if a minute amount) and to also remove the balance shaft belt, which has the tendincy to break and take out the timing belt.

 

I have seen many stub kits fail and tear up oil pumps..twice in a row on the same engine. He was very lucky that no real damage was done to anything other than the oil pump and housing. I would say its hit and miss with that style..I choose the AMS kit..$150 is not that bad.

 

I have done probably 100 stub shaft balance shaft eliminators and have NEVER had an oil pump problem. I have however had 2 engines where the oil pump shaft has seized and destroyed the motor. If you are killing oil pumps you are having cavitation issues. Fix your problem and take the shafts the whole way out.

 

let me know when you tear up a bearing with that shaft spinning at 12xxx RPM

Very few people realize this problem.

 

woah... you can remove the shafts and belts compeltely?

 

Our car still had the stock shafts in it when it went 10.0@142. Not sure when they would have failed...


-Em

 

Can you explain this cavitation problem and how it is rectified?