I got my car with this already on it (by this I mean the HKS BOV) along with an Injen intake + full pipe setup. I haven't run into any idling issues as of yet but I have had bogging down issues when switching from neut to first with the the clutch engage. While the rpms settle they dip down to about 400 but never kill the car (for example - going into a gas station or into a parking spot entering in on 1st then switching over to neutral the car bogs) Well the bog down is a bit of a inconvenience to say the least. Instead of replacing my bov I was thinking of just purchasing the HKS Electronic Stabilizer. Now my questions are.

1. Has anyone bought this and have it eliminate the issues at hand?

2. I'm uncertain if the previous owner of my car did a tune to the car, likely not. It only has the BOV, Injen setup, HKS muffler. I have a bunch of parts going on so I'm thinking maybe I should get a tune before I purchase this &it may possibly smooth out / eliminate the issue.

What do you guys think? Oh I'm VTA.

PS - I did do a search and I ran across many threads that's how I found out about this Stabilizer. Thanks, flame on if you cannot resist!

 

SD or MAF?

 

OK I had this BOV on my evo for about 2-3 years. The ECU can compensate for you running VTA. Your dumping alot of fuel when switch gears the other thing with the BOV it works fine if your under WOT and switch gears if you part throttle boost it may start to buck under the certain conditions. The Idle Stablizer from what I heard is a waste of money and doesn't work. My suggestion would be to get APS twin vent BOV. I switch over a few months ago and never looked back. I since then I have pushed 30psi on that BOV and it hold just fine. Part throttle boost no problems. No BOV flutter or anything

 

maf

 

Thats what I was worried about however I managed to get a brand one off ebay for $60 new and shipped so if it doesn't work I guess I'll just sell it? Thanks for the input. Sometimes you gotta pay a little to play right eh ...

 

Yeah see that's the thing about modding a car try to do it right the first time so you don't have to waste money and do it again but good luck

 

well when i put in my SSQV...i had to put this is in with it as my tuner said its necessary...but when i changed my tuner removed it after i put in Intercooler and Cams, the new tuner threw it out sayin you dont need it, its a waste of money and ironically the idle got much better without it....hope it helps rather than it confuses u.p

 

lancershop.com recomends it if you VTA. But then again they may just be trying to get some more $$$. If you get your car tuned I'm thinking you don't need it, it may be just if your running it with out a tune like dude said above.
Let us know what happened when you Install!

 

Your car will run like crap VTA + MAF as you are dumping metered air. You need to recirculate the vented air back into the charge pipe post MAF.

You can find the V7 SD conversion in the ECUflash forum and you can toss the MAF + run any VTA BOV happily all day long.

 

 

Take this with a grain of salt, but Lancershop is just another Mastaminds retailer. Meaning they pretty much only have general product knowledge; no dyno, no shop cars, no fabrication, services, etc. outside product sales. If HKS recommends in their sales brochure that the idle stabilizer be paired with a vented bypass valve, then that's what Lancershop will say. They have absolutely no community affiliation (other than buying an ad) or deeper product knowledge like you'll get from companies like Buschur Racing, or any of the other shops who read and advise people here on EvoM.

 

I found while running it on my evo 9 for sometime it was fine, but really I am glad I went with another bov, try what you want but for great performance get a tial