So here soon Im going to attempt to start in on a built motor and Im going through all my various options... I already have a spare viii block and crank, but am considering going with something of the larger displacement long rod variations. So my question is... What are my options without doing something ultra fancy and if you were to put them in order of cheapest to most expensive, where do they all stand?

The end goal is to run a 9.99et using a 6262 and have a reliable streetable car. I dont intend to drag it often at all but do want the top end for pulls from a roll. Ill be running E85 100% of the time as well.

 

I would say to do a 2.1 with 6262 if you want to increase displacement. It will still give you the ability to rev to 9k and have a great power band with the 6262. I couldn't tell you what it cost. I spent about $1800 for just pistons/rods/bearings and machine work for my 2.0L..that doesn't include assembly.

 

There's always the 2.4l 46g4 route as well. Saves you on the core charge of the 63 and being able to rev to 8k with a 6262 would be awesome on a 2.4l.

 

with the 4g63 block you have to choose between stroking or long rod. there is no getting both. stroking will make it more streetable, but it will not get it down the 1/4 mile faster. the cheapest setup would be the stock block, stock crank, off the shelf 2.3 pistons and off the shelf manley 156mm rods. better r/s ratio but no added displacement. if you want a stroker motor, sell your block and buy a 4g64.

 

If you want to use the 4g63 block I would do a long rod 2.0L 4g63.

88mm crank (stock)
4G63 Block
156mm Shelf Rods
"2.3L" 1.13"CH Shelf Pistons

^^^ this is the best CHEAPEST route. You could run a 150mm rod, but that's dumb.

If you did anything other than this... I would recommend switching to the 4g64 block for it's taller deck and superior rod to stroke ratio.

I chose to do a 2.2L a little differently.
4G64 Block
94mm eagle crank
159mm custom R&R rods
1.13" 86.5mm Custom JE Pistons

 

bump

 

Interested in drag 'pulls' i see... 2.0, highest 2.1 is 'talked' about in these threads. Check around and Good Luck.

 

What effects in the power band will I see in a long rod 2.0L vs the stock rod length? Also with the "2.3L" 1.13"CH Shelf Pistons what kind of compression would that put me at? Financially this sounds like the easiest and cheapest rout....?

 

according to my calculations, and assuming a .5mm overbore, combustion chambers that havent been hogged out and a tight deck, a -8cc dish is 9.0:1, a -4cc dish is 9.55:1 and a flat top with no dish or dome is 10.18:1.

 

"It's a well established fact that, kinematically, a longer rod ratio produces a more uniform piston velocity throughout its stroke. Thus a long rod produces lower peak piston velocities/accelerations/jerk etc. Generally, intake flow stagnates at sonic velocity. And since intake velocity through the ports is relatively proportional to piston speed, intake flow benefits from reduced peak piston velocity." - Terry "Riff Raff"

the compression height has literally NOTHING to do with compression ratio. You can still pick 9:1 or whatever you want.

 

i think he might have to go custom though to get a decent compression ratio. dont most off the shelf 2.3 pistons have closer to a -22cc dish?

 

-17 IIRC from wiseco.

 

dont forget they account for .011" deck clearance....which "could" be machined away to surface the deck.

 

Im not following you here? -17 will land me where as far as compression goes?

The LR 2.0L seems to be the most logical choice financially and should meet my goals... In theory it seems as if theres really no reason to build a standard length rod 2.0L really?

 

-17cc will be wayyy to low. You need. -6cc dish or smaller.