Moral of the story:
Check your oil levels.
I just checked mine and sure enough it was dangerously low.
Thanks for warning us all!

 

I myself sell these cars for a living. I don't know everything, but I do know a lot about these cars. Thanks to everyone backing me, and everyone else that is not consider what we are talking about here before you start stating your opinion that makes u look like an ***. This is a brand new car that obviously has a problem with the rold bolts. I don't know how many of you have taken the casing off of your crank and looked at the rod bolts, but I have. These bolts are in no way shape or size big enough for the amount of power an Evo is supposed to have. This is just my opinion. There is no car that should starve for oil after 2,600 miles since the last oil change, especially when Mitsu rates it to be able to go 3,750 miles between oil changes.....

 

Big mistake. Check the spacer. If it has not been changed they owe you an engine.

 

actually Mitsu states 5k on the oil changes.

 

CarPhoto. Now I've never heard of that... Where did you hear about this???? By the way nice carbon hood. U can see pics of my car at Show and Shine section or Evolutionation.8m.com

 

On the pit pass plan it is every 3,750?!

 

ah i see.....still pretty stupid though....everyone knows that a real oil change is supposed to be done every 3k miles.

 

Nobody is questioning your integretity. They are questioning the argument that 3,500 between oil changes implies that fluid levels need not be checked on a high performance race car. Our EVO's are the real deal and driving them like we stole them and not checking oil level is a bad decision. You can do that with a Honda Civic, but not an EVO. I wish you all the luck in the world getting warranty work and hope you do.

Your statement relative to weak rod bolts is contrary to others experience, that's all. In particular Buschur's who has more experience fixing, building, breaking, racing and tuning the 4G63 than probably any one in the US. His opinion carries a lot of weight.

And if I don't understand your point still; then line me up with propellerhead and ***** slap both of us.

Speedlimit....

 

This is a "forum" and as such is a medium of open discussion or expression of ideas. I qualified my statements before making them and I stick by my opinion.

I should have stated that I agree with you that an engine shouldn't consume that much oil. It's just going to be hard to argue against negligence when you're coming from point of view. It's also going to be hard to argue that the rod bolts are under engineered and are at fault when the root cause of the failure was oil starvation. Personally, I think you might be underestimating the power of thermal expansion and the nasty effect it will have on the rod bolts.

Again, it sucks that the oil was burned so quickly but how did it go unchecked for so long? I think you'll find that the warranty clearly states that it's voided when the damage is cause by lack of proper oil level. Keeping the fluids in the car is probably the only thing you have to do to keep the powertrain warranty in force (aside from not modifying, racing, etc).

For what it's worth, I feel your pain. I've personally rebuilt a Porsche flat 6 with a spun bearing caused by oil starvation. A used crank in a flat 6 costs as much as a used 4G63 long block. Throw in all the other parts and machining and you're looking at a $7K to $10K rebuild. Granted the engine had 135,000 miles on it and needed to be rebuilt but it's still an expensive way to learn the importance of keeping the crank journals fed with lots o' oil.

 

Oh yeah. I understand that some part of my problem was a bit of negligence, but on the other hand, my car only had 2,600 miles on it since my last oil change?? I just think that should do something about considering that I purchased a service agreement with them that cost me 1500 dollars... Oh well we will see what happens. The good news it that my car doesn't need a crank (most likely). All that it need is 1 rod and bearings, so instead of the whole motor coming out they only need to tear the head off of it....

 

um.......sounds like they need to get to the bottom end, especially with it involving the crank.

 

They just need to change a rod in mine though, so no need to pull the whole motor.... On the other hand, your buddies Evo is screwed... The whole motor has to come out of that one...

 

I think some sort of compromise should be reached. Maybe a 70/30 split with MMC picking up the 70%.

Don't let them do a half-assed job. If you spun a bearing there's a very good chance that the crank needs to be polished. The worse case scenario is that it will need to be machined down and undersize bearings installed.

Good luck. Let us know how it plays out.

 

Thanks man. The techs here at work said the crank was fine... We tried to just put new bearings in but like I said before the rod bolts were stretched so, the cap would not torque down right.. I trust the tech here at work they've done one of these before with the same problem and it ran like a champ. Thanks Again.

 

I can see both sides to this story. But you would think Mitsu would inform you to check your oil at every gas fill up. But they don't. They give you that cheezy test about breaking in the brakes, and breaking in the motor and yada yada before you leave the lot, but never do they mention frequently checking the oil. I care a lot more about my motor than I do my cheap *** mitsu brake pads, but the motor oil failed to be mentioned.