Shep told me to use the AMSOIL (which is what CBRD uses I believe) and apagan never steers me wrong!

 

I got everythig amsoil in my car, great stuff, absolutly no complaints

 

Thanks for appreciating !

And thats exactly my point Mr,,,how well this oil stacked up to other oils in the 4 ball wear test with a very low scar, and a Falex testing @ 2500 lbf,
my point is that most of us like to see real world test and the cars out there running the oil is the best piece of education one can demonstrate to this community.

I could sit here and try and get techy on all these guys with graphs and charts of all the tst that goes into these oils,, but by trying to put myself in their shoes i would like to see the meat and potatoes not a bunch of charts and graphs with numbers that in most cases can mean absoulutely nothing to some folks,, thats why real life testing cars going down 1/4 mile or Time attack is a good visual for most to understand how a product performs.

you dont need to open up the tranny or engine to measure anything , by running oil analysis which is way cheaper you can identify a posible problem inside the system before it becomes a serious problem.

I understand your point of lets open these components to see how well they measure to original design dimensions and that would tell us how well is performing,,, but the confidense we have in these is has been well established already over the years.

 

you bet

 

i think shep is finding out that after opening the trannys the gears are still measuring pretty close to stock cuts.

we had a conversation long time ago and going to try and run a 6K project, 2K on MTG 2K on redline and 2K on BG these miles were going to be harcore miles and they were going to take and measure the gears at the 2K intervals.

i chickened out because i did not wanted to do it with my own evo, and he did not have a tranny laying to do it him self,, so all fell through,,,, plus to much money in a test like this and not much in return for either one of us.

 

now that is the old mentality of thicker better that gets people in trouble and that is not 100% true anymore these days,, oils these days are capable of keeping its strucure together , and thats why testing like 4 ball wear, Falex, and all the ASTM testing that the industry requires have proved it,,, ( you see now you made me go into the same BS i did not want to charts and graph ) .
Example Falex testing is a very important test for gear lubes because it dictates how well the oil will separate metal to metal contact and at which rate will the oil not be able to be between the parts, the oil we are talking here in this thread is ranged at 75w90 2500 lbft, the 75w140 is a thicker oil and the number is 2500 lbft, red line is somewhere in the 1200 lbft

as tolerances in the interals decrease so should the oil, and it has,, so what hapens is now you need an oil that keeps its structure together and there comes synthetics, holding higher temps, higher flash points so it dont vaporize under heat, clinging better onto parts, higher contents of antiwear additives to keep metal to metal contact to a minimum.

for example lets take a 5 speed GSR tranny,,, one of the draw backs of this tranny is people getting alot of 5th gear grinds because there syncro going poop prematurely, we know that the 5th gear is the highest gear and the last to get proper lubrication ( Thicker oil mentality gets you in trouble because it will not get up there or anywhere else where it needs to be quick enough during cold starts)


I like to use this example:
grab a cofee straw ( cofee straw represents your oil galleys and passages) fill a glass of orange juice ( OJ represents a 10W30 ) fill a glass of syrup, (syrup represents 20W50), now use the straw to sip,, your mouth represents your car's oil pump,, you cant change the pressure of your mouth so equally you cant change the pressure on your oil pump, therfore you will starve at some point because the straw neither your mouth can adapt to the thick syrup,, same thing goes here, oil pump neither the galleys don't change in dimmension or the pump pressure.

 

i really dont want to get into an oil debate with you. I have services 100s of engines, transmission, rear ends, and t-cases. It doesnt take a brain to see if oil is doing a good job. some gears come out looking like chrome and others come out looking not so good. One of the nicest gear sets i have seen was from a good friend who beat on his car daily for 65,000 miles. when I opened his tranny I was shocked. I called him right away and asked what kind of oil he was using. I was further shocked to hear he was using the least expensive oil that discount sells. coastal 80/90w at like 12$ a gallon. The secret was changing the fluid every other oil change or about 4000 miles in his case. And then there are the other transmissions including my own that have come in here looking like crap with oil costing upwards of 18$ a quart.

In short I have seen some of the wear tests where some synthetic oils got their butts kicked by cheap oils.

the evo 5th speed tranny by the way gets plenty of oil to all the gears, 5th included. they all live inside same case. the early 4g63 trans however had a inferior design where 5th gear lived in separate case and to be fed oil through a rail.

You didnt get my original point that just because AWD uses your oil it must be good stuff . so I am not gonna discuss that further. if that is all people need to hear to buy your oil good for you. I dont really care. have at it.

 

I can care less about your point or opinion,, i like facts and i hate beating around the bush,, so data is what the community wants " lab testing and real life testing " and your dam right that i say if AWD, AMS, and all the hundreds of cars running 550 WHP plus using the oil are satisfied and iam sure the oil contributed to their less breaking parts,,, and iam not saying that is all because of the oil because who knows if they used that 50 cent oil they might have been ok but maybe not !


Do you mind sharing the data you say about cheap oils beating high quality syntetic ??
If not then we move on to the OP's thread regarding what flavor would one use for what application.

 

I'm starting to think your only here to talk ****, and be annoying.

 

Go into his post history and you will see that this is a common pattern for him.

for the people that know me iam a no beat the bush person i dont like to waste time on stupid topics neither less i like the ones that are full of points and opinions,, bring me raw data bring me real life data and we will go hand on had.


however i dont think he is trying to harm anyone or pull any BS,, is just the way it reads,,, he has some good points that i agree with and some points that i dont,, but hey as long as we are humans we will not agree on everything non of us.

 

Damn, good response man!

 

Built motor and 3582... I would recommend the 75w-110, that's what I'll be running with the FP Red.

 

not sure if it would matter but the guy above you has been running 75W90 for almost 2 years now if memory serves me well,, and he has ran that car through its paces at over 500 horses on the red.

 

with the 05 using lsd oil in the T-case is amsoil made with an additive for that also? and what would be recomende for and 05 evo with ACD on bolt ons with stock turbo?

 

75w-90 SVG