They aren't secrets really. People have been using this method, since before motoman went public. He's just the guy that got made famous for it, because he developed the theory as to why it works. But tuners and builders have been doing this for years. It does work. I have personally broken in many engines right there on the dyno with great results.

With modern engines, there really is no break-in of bearings, etc. Back in the day, you had to break the motor in differently, because they were built using different materials and different tolerances. Today's modern engines (especially the high performance/ high output engines) are built with much tighter tolerances and friction surfaces that don't need "break-in", other than the rings. The rings are the only thing that really needs to be "broken-in" and it can't happen properly if you don't seat them strait away. You want the ring to seat against the cylinder wall, scoring the ring and not the cylinder wall. If you don't do this with lot's of pressure, as soon as the engine is warmed up, you run the risk of having the imperfect ring scoring the cylinder wall, which is not good.

Trust me, the science is there and it works. The manufacturers aren't going to tell you this stuff either. They'll still have you believe the old-school way, because it makes them more money down the road.

 

When you run the engine for the first time youre producing a ton of tiny metal particles so you wanna change oil and filter at 50. I recommend rotella. And you need cylinder pressure up but not WOT necessarily. Just 10 lbs of boost will be more than enough. The MOST impotant thing that I haven't seen mentioned is vary the rpms constantly! Don't cruise, down shift and up shift, work on your heel toe. Just don't stay at 3k the whole time.

 

These are all great advices!!! Thanks a bunch on all the details. I will build cylinder pressure. i will not stay at a constant rpm run (10 lbs of boost helps, now i have a limit thanks!). i will change the oil after 50 miles to get all the metal shavings out. but

how do i know when the rings are seated properly?
after the initial 50 miles of constant rpm changes (build cylinder pressure) and oil change, then what? do i drive it like i used to? do i baby it more than usual?
it is a dd but i have my fun here and there when i can

also i need more info after the first oil change (the 50 mile one)
Do i go back to the mobil 1 synthetic? or change it to a non synthetic oil for 1500 miles like motoman says?

thanks a bunch again!!

 

any info i have is all you prolly have heard
ever since i bought the car sometimes when i pressed the clutch in at a complete stop the rpms would drop
it got worse and worse.
to the point where the car started dying everytime i pushed in the clutch at a complete stop. sent it in to my mechanic and he showed me the crank moving .030 inches. spec travel is .003 - .008 inches. for a crankshaft.

hope this helps

 

When I had my engine built the shop that put it together told me to forget about "break in," ofcourse, I am not as hard as most on my car but I got on it a little, LOL.....

 

You don't know. But after the first 50 miles, they should be.

After the first 50 miles drive it however you want.

Personally, I'd keep Rotella in it for the life of the car, but Mobil 1 is also a good choice. Use Rotella for at least the first 3000 miles, because it has a higher concentration of zinc dithiophosphate, then you can switch to Mobil 1.

Don't discount rotella just because it's cheap. I've personally seen it put in a ton of race engines and it works.

 

One last question before i get my car on friday. What type of Rotella. Some people say go to non synthetic for a while. so non synthetic Rotella or stick with the synthetic stuff from Rotella?

thanks again!!!

 

I remember when I bought mine new, they stressed staying under 5000rpms for the first 600 miles (might have been a little less) or I risk voiding my warranty.

 

Whatever's cheap! It's only gonna be in there for a 1500 miles. The only thing I've seen synthetic improve upon is how long you can run it without it breaking down. It also has a little more consistency to it, from one bottle to the next. But none of that is really important to you. The regular Rotella T or whatever will protect and lubricate just as well as the synthetic. The only thing I can say for synthetic, I know respectable folks who've seen a 10 hp gain(on an engine dyno) from running Mobil 1. I'd rather have the extra windage and have a little better protection myself.

 

Thanks again!! I cant wait for friday anymore!!!