Is there really any difference?


ITM - 5.64 a piece
JAM - 9.73 a piece
OEM - 34.xx a piece



I have run ITM in alllllll of my dsm's for a good 6-7 years with no problems - Thanks to Parts Dinosaur in Arizona.. Now My head is off and I had some serious lifter tick/slapage going on and I think its due to the lifters having some residual metal left in them and what not since they are pretty damn hard to actually clean out inside.

I was going to purchase a set of ITM's for 95 bucks and toss them in to quiet down the valve train. Just curious if any one ever had a problem with any of them?

There is 65K on my current oem lifters.

 

i was looking at the jam 3mm lifters too. i never heard of itms, but will research. if they are bled, there shouldn't be a problem. unless they are sticking or something weird like that. my tick just got louder too. 70K. good luck. whatever you go with, update please.

 

I lost a motor before, and I think theres "junk" in the lifters still. I had one completely collapse and make a **** ton of noise.. then just pump back up. So rather then continue to have random issues, I am going to replace all 16.

Ordering them today.

 

i have the JAM and they have been perfect. Ive run them for approx 10k miles

 

I have yet to see evidence why the JAM lifters are any better then ITM or even mitsu..

 

When you bled the OEM lifters, what procedure did you use? Unless one has collapsed, i don't see the need to replace them.

The way i bleed my lifters if by using a really small allen wrench. You can stick the allen wrench in the top hole and "feel" your way to the bottom of the lifter. It will bottom out. Once you have bottomed the allen out, push it in and out. The lifter will instantly bleed. Do this over and over again until you get everything out of the lifter. Oil will squirt out of the top and the side hole. If there is anything in there, it should come out with relative ease. If you bleed them really well. Of course, there is no way to be sure, until you pump them back up while in the head. If any of the lifters feel like they are really sluggish or collapsed, replace that lifter. You'll be able to tell if the lifter itself is truly bad. Once bled, the lifter should move up and down easily but should still be pretty tight once you get to the bottom.

You can also prime them with diesel fuel, like the shop manual suggests. Not sure how you'll be able to tell if you got any debris out of them until they are installed again. Maybe somebody can add some useful info regarding that.

 

i have JAM lifters in my car now. i dont see a difference but i came fro oem ones that were ticking after 2k. i beat the crap out of my car and so far jam has 5k with no problems.

 

They were bled and cleaned when the motor popped.. and mutiple collapsed after about 1500 miles..

They were SO LOUD i thought i actually lost this motor.. then... bam.. they stopped

... then started...


then stopped.

 

just giving my experience

 

I've got a set of the TTP no tick lifters here. They are out of a wrecked car with a motor that still ran after the wreck. I'm going to follow the manual and bleed them down, clean them and then install them on my new head. I'll let you know how it goes. At $159 for the set of 16 it's not to bad.

Josh

 

Oh i know. I just know I have pulled apart

topline, ITM and OEM... and they were all the same.. measured inside etc.

 

JAM and TTP are larger internal bore if memory serves me correctly.

Josh

 

wonder if it makes a difference.


Kiggly would be a good person to ask - he did a lot of testing on top end oil pressures and im sure he tested multiple lifter options.

 

I honestly don't know but we will see shortly. I'll post up any results I notice in this thread and maybe start my own. Kiggly has done A LOT of testing and found that the oil pressure being to high in the head has caused some problems before. They make a replacement oil control cap for the head I believe.

Josh

 

It would be nice to keep it together - compare the differences. IS the price really worth it...

IMO there is NO WAY oem is worth 6 times the cost..