^ Do you do anything to the port on the backside of the valve cover where the PCV is?

 

I have a -8AN fitting on the intake side of mine. You have to remove the sheet metal inside the cam cover if you want to ensure all the metal shavings are gone. You can use a sharp chisel to quickly knock the heads of the small studs holding the sheet metal in place. Carefully remove the sheet metal. Remove the original fitting (I clamped the outside in a vice and held the cam cover in my hand to pull them apart). I carefully drilled and tapped the side for a -8an bulkhead fitting. This allowed the fitting to thread in, but also has a nut on the front and back to make sure it doesn't come apart. I used some sealant as well. If you want to reuse the sheet metal shields (which you should), you can carefully drill and tap the place where the studs were (after grinding flat) and use stainless button head fasteners to hold the sheet metal in place. Red locktite is a must here, or you can take a tip from off-road racers and put a small dab of JB weld over the top of the bolt head to make it permanent. Final clean.

It took me a few hours, but turned out great.

 

What is the desired size for applications pushing 600whp (MD)?

Also are most following the NHRA spec of 2qt capacity of the catch can?

I like the STM route but again what epoxy is being used Em?

A local guy posted pics of this ....... appears to be welded:

 

No glue is needed for ours. they are press in. If you want you can use a little mitsu bond to ensure it holds.

-Em

 

whats the point of going to an fittings and braided hose? seems like a waste of money.

 

I have one already setup for this for sale in classifieds if you'd rather have the work already done and ready to bolt up....

 

BluEVOIX is right. The ports on the stock valve cover is way too small. Much larger lines need to be used. Even -6AN or -8AN is too small IMO. I installed two -10AN lines on mine. Since both ports are in the stock location, it baffles well and doesn't fill up my catch can too quickly. I'd take some pictures if I can ever find my digital camera.

Before I went with the -10AN lines in the VC, I tried Hals vented oil cap on my last dyno similar to this one on a DSM:

I gained 10hp! Put the stock oil cap back on and I lost 10hp which means the stock sized VC nipples can't vent enough.

I am running about 630whp uncorrected so stock power they may be okay.

The vented oil cap works great but lots of oil comes out and you need a catch can like Buschurs that drains back into the oil pan if you run it. I welded another tube on my dip stick tube and I was considering running another catch can that just drains back. Before I do all that, I was going to dyno with and without Hal's oil cap to see if it makes any difference with the new -10AN lines in the VC.

BTW- My VC looks similar to Booztd 3's.

 

You don't have to do the braided hose. Just use the cheap brass fittings at the hardware store with barbed ends and use regular rubber hose if you don't care about looks. The AN fittings are much easier to remove compared to trying to remove a rubber hose from a barb fitting.

 

Back from the dead but how did the results turn out with the -10 valve cover fitting vs. Hal's vented cap rodent?

 

10 Hp from relieving pressure is amazing. im surprised you didn't push out gaskets with all that crankcase pressure.

Has anyone tried having the catch can drain back into the oil pan?

 

does anybody know which size i need so that i can purchase it before my car goes immobilized

 

depends what fittings you use.

-6 3/8"
-8 1/2"
-10 5/8"

 

Thats what BR's does.

 

if anyone is hard up and cant find the hose and fittings, send me a pm and i can help you out. i just need to know what size fittings and how long the hoses need to be and i can make some up for like $25 shipped for 2 hoses with 4 fittings.