Nicks LR 2.4 FP Black Build
so your crank is not good?? can you with a cut crank?? how does one know the crank is cut any pix Aaron for us wanted to gain knowledge. Some harsh words for sbr Nickie. so you are basically buying everything in the motor minus the block. Mike where is my help im seriously want 225 so i can get a 65mm t/b to replaces that peace of **** one i bought and thought was in working order LOL. i dont want to put the factory t/b back on if i can avoid it lol
Regardless of who says what about cut cranks, we refuse to build any motors with one and will toss them as soon as we discover them. I will stand by what I have said many times before that turned cranks (not talking about polished for light damage) were cool 40 years ago. They have NO PLACE in high performance builds. For what a good used crank goes for and the recent price drop in some of the aftermarket choices, grab a good one and start over.
There are many engine builders that will say its baloney or hooey and a 10/10 crank is fine. My question would be why everyone I have ever seen (I am talking from 20 years of engine building, yes I did start young) wipes bearings before the rest of the motor has a chance to fail. Maybe its karma, maybe its when you look with a critical eye its easier to see, I dunno.
Take a micrometer to the journals or use a stock rod and std sized bearings and if its torqued to spec it should spin but not have movement (its a total of .010" or 0.25mm). This is the preferred way to check. We mic'd it to see what it was, that and a 10/10 crank was something I suspected as soon as I heard "it went 125 miles and wiped a bearing". The 2 go together in the same sentence usually
Regardless of who says what about cut cranks, we refuse to build any motors with one and will toss them as soon as we discover them. I will stand by what I have said many times before that turned cranks (not talking about polished for light damage) were cool 40 years ago. They have NO PLACE in high performance builds. For what a good used crank goes for and the recent price drop in some of the aftermarket choices, grab a good one and start over.
There are many engine builders that will say its baloney or hooey and a 10/10 crank is fine. My question would be why everyone I have ever seen (I am talking from 20 years of engine building, yes I did start young) wipes bearings before the rest of the motor has a chance to fail. Maybe its karma, maybe its when you look with a critical eye its easier to see, I dunno.
Regardless of who says what about cut cranks, we refuse to build any motors with one and will toss them as soon as we discover them. I will stand by what I have said many times before that turned cranks (not talking about polished for light damage) were cool 40 years ago. They have NO PLACE in high performance builds. For what a good used crank goes for and the recent price drop in some of the aftermarket choices, grab a good one and start over.
There are many engine builders that will say its baloney or hooey and a 10/10 crank is fine. My question would be why everyone I have ever seen (I am talking from 20 years of engine building, yes I did start young) wipes bearings before the rest of the motor has a chance to fail. Maybe its karma, maybe its when you look with a critical eye its easier to see, I dunno.
They are induction hardened and not nitrided from what I have been told recently. I am not sure of that data as I had been told they are nitrided for ages. Either way, the process is depth limited in either case I am sure. Depth isnt something I happen to have hard data on though.
As far as I know induction hardening is a surface treatment and doesnt have much depth. This is a common bit of knowledge (not turning cranks) that goes back to DSMs and the VFAQ for a long time.
As far as I know induction hardening is a surface treatment and doesnt have much depth. This is a common bit of knowledge (not turning cranks) that goes back to DSMs and the VFAQ for a long time.
. after i get that 65mm t/b i showed you im going to talk to milspec about fixing this coated t/b hopifully they can and i can have it all matching up nice like. i want my engine fully ported everyplace it can maximum flow type deal and i have one spot thats not ported and thats t/b lol.all i have left is
65mm t/b
fortune auto dress up bolts
thats not **** compared to where a build starts from getting the built head etc maybe ER will sponsor me a 65mm t/b if I ask nice enough LOL
Last edited by RockmanX; Jun 15, 2010 at 11:18 PM.
Im stuck with the stock t/b for now.
Ive got a spare 2.0 block, near perfect, can still see the cross hatching in the cylinders i need to sell, along with the pistons and rods (was a buschur 2.0) and some tires, an apr rear diffuser, and anything from my previous motor.
I gotta get this stuff sold quick, because i now have about 3-4 weeks to come up with an extra 1300. woohoo
Ive got a spare 2.0 block, near perfect, can still see the cross hatching in the cylinders i need to sell, along with the pistons and rods (was a buschur 2.0) and some tires, an apr rear diffuser, and anything from my previous motor.
I gotta get this stuff sold quick, because i now have about 3-4 weeks to come up with an extra 1300. woohoo
thumbs down for that fatass overweight rod despite its super man strength. I guess the ideal rod is the pauter titanium but due to the difficulty of obtaining titanium it is 5k on sale!http://www.atomicspeedware.com/paute...rtitanium.aspx but you'd cut 33 percent of weight, so you're revving l ike a sport bike... almost lol still got fat pistons
I DONT GET IT WHAT IS PEOPLES OBSESSION WITH WEIGHT SAVING. YES IM PICKING ON BROHAM NOW. 5K FOR RODS SERIOUSLY DUDE WHAT ARE YOU DOING IN YOUR DAILY LIFE TO NEED TO SHAVE YOUR EVO DOWN TO 2000 OR LESS POUNDS. Unless you road race every other day or dragging for money every single day and that is your job and you have your own shop to do all work all this saving weight garbage does not apply to the average user that is going to use his car to beat up on mustang and the like seriously. you dont need a 1800 lb evo to drive to work and back 5 miles in and take it to the track once a year yet your spent 5k on rods and another 5k on pistons stupid and what if you blow the motor after spending that much come on now you spending money like you in a GTR. Rant over we cool broham just sometimes i swear dude.
637g sounds like a ton. So does 355g and 695 which is stock weight rod and pistons. For the record my motor has that rod weight and 309g pistons, so no matter what its still less than stock. The internet is a fabulous tool that has alot of data that we can use with the search button-
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/6516954-post57.html
Yeah it sounds heavy, hell its 1.4 POUNDS apiece. That sounds heavy swinging at 8500. Not as bad as stock 695g rods though
Ti rods would be awesome but dont like shock loads (brittle) and wouldnt be any easier on bearings than steel. If we can get an aluminum rod made to fit (I have heard APM is working on some) and if I get time I'll cut one down and send it to R&R to see what we can do. That would be optimum for sure.
aaron
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/6516954-post57.html
Yeah it sounds heavy, hell its 1.4 POUNDS apiece. That sounds heavy swinging at 8500. Not as bad as stock 695g rods though
Ti rods would be awesome but dont like shock loads (brittle) and wouldnt be any easier on bearings than steel. If we can get an aluminum rod made to fit (I have heard APM is working on some) and if I get time I'll cut one down and send it to R&R to see what we can do. That would be optimum for sure.aaron
Last edited by JohnBradley; Jun 16, 2010 at 06:05 PM.
thumbs down for that fatass overweight rod despite its super man strength. I guess the ideal rod is the pauter titanium but due to the difficulty of obtaining titanium it is 5k on sale!http://www.atomicspeedware.com/paute...rtitanium.aspx but you'd cut 33 percent of weight, so you're revving l ike a sport bike... almost lol still got fat pistons
