why am I having a hard time hitting target boost?
why am I having a hard time hitting target boost?
My car has a hta green and all the supporting mods. Boost is controlled by the ecu.
It was tuned to hit 33psi, but it seems like I am having a real hard time hitting 33psi. Every here and there doing a 3rd gear pull it will hit 33psi, but it doesnt seem consistent. I did a 5th gear pull and it seemed like the boost instantly soared to 33psi as soon as I got on the gas pedal.
Only thing I can think of is that the stoopid rubber intake pipe is getting crushed when the pressure builds so quickly... as in a 3rd gear pull.
Orrrrr.... the stock wga does not hold? maybe bov?
Btw, a boostleak test seemed to hold 33psi before the tb seals started leaking, so that eliminates the bov?
It was tuned to hit 33psi, but it seems like I am having a real hard time hitting 33psi. Every here and there doing a 3rd gear pull it will hit 33psi, but it doesnt seem consistent. I did a 5th gear pull and it seemed like the boost instantly soared to 33psi as soon as I got on the gas pedal.
Only thing I can think of is that the stoopid rubber intake pipe is getting crushed when the pressure builds so quickly... as in a 3rd gear pull.
Orrrrr.... the stock wga does not hold? maybe bov?
Btw, a boostleak test seemed to hold 33psi before the tb seals started leaking, so that eliminates the bov?
Assuming that you have a 5-spd. tranny, then set boost in 4th, or 5th gear on a mild uphill grade. 1st through 3rd gears may not give an accurate indication, and may frequently give a boost level that is a couple # less than what you'll get in 4th or 5th gears.
At your boost level you may be better off with the FP 18# actuator, or the 25# unit. But, try something. Run a length of vacuum hose directly from your WGA to the nipple on the compressor discharge tube. Increase boost incrementally by rotating the "turnbuckle" on the end of the threaded actuator rod.
This will tell us a couple of things, such as: 1) Whether or not the stock actuator is up to the task at 33#. 2) Whether you are running too little WG spring pressure, for one reason or another.
This will tell us a couple of things, such as: 1) Whether or not the stock actuator is up to the task at 33#. 2) Whether you are running too little WG spring pressure, for one reason or another.
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No its not the stock intake pipe, but it is a rubber one. Probably some kind of ebay pipe, It is 4-ply tho.
The car is a 8, 5speed with the following mods
hks 272
pte 880
walbro
hta green
arp headstuds
ebay o2 housing
rubber intake pipe
ebay intercooler
UICP, LICP
full exhaust, no cats,
stock ported exhaust mani
walbro
tuned for 93
BOV, forge recirculating
the boost lines are connected from the WGA to compressor and are T'ed into the stock boost controller.
As far as the WGA, I should shorten the arm? correct?
It is pretty hot here, but it seems like my boost consistantly lands somewhere between 24-27psi at least in the lower gears, such as 1-3.
The car is a 8, 5speed with the following mods
hks 272
pte 880
walbro
hta green
arp headstuds
ebay o2 housing
rubber intake pipe
ebay intercooler
UICP, LICP
full exhaust, no cats,
stock ported exhaust mani
walbro
tuned for 93
BOV, forge recirculating
the boost lines are connected from the WGA to compressor and are T'ed into the stock boost controller.
As far as the WGA, I should shorten the arm? correct?
It is pretty hot here, but it seems like my boost consistantly lands somewhere between 24-27psi at least in the lower gears, such as 1-3.
You will never hit 33 psi boost in first and second gear if you were tuned to 33 psi in 3rd or 4th gear and there is no need to.
You need engine load to build boost and the load on the motor in first and second is significantly less than 3rd, 4th, 5th.
If you roll into third full throttle from say 3K RPM you should still hit that 33 every time. If you dont then start looking for boost leaks etc.... If you do, then stop worrying about your car and go enjoy it already.
You need engine load to build boost and the load on the motor in first and second is significantly less than 3rd, 4th, 5th.
If you roll into third full throttle from say 3K RPM you should still hit that 33 every time. If you dont then start looking for boost leaks etc.... If you do, then stop worrying about your car and go enjoy it already.
Shortening the adjustable WG rod will improve spoolup. So, yeah go ahead and play around with that.
Shorten the WGA rod by rotating the turnbuckle in clockwise a couple of complete turns. As a rule of thumb do three complete 360* rotations from the point where the hole on the turnbuckle freely slides on and off of the flapper valve's pivot arm.
Remember that this will probably cause your peakboost to increase and aftewards you may have to compensate by backing off a couple # with the boost controller. But, the turbo will spoolup quicker.
Another thing that you can do is install adjustable cam sprockets and advance the cam timing to +2/0, or, +1/-1. This will make her spoolup quicker in the low gears.
Also, I don't know about your particular BOV but you should be able to tighten the spring so that the valve doesn't crack as early. On a metal MR DV this is accomplished by crushing the DV.
Furthermore, your tuner can pull some timing at lower engine speeds which should also improve spool as will lean spool fuel table tinkering.
Shorten the WGA rod by rotating the turnbuckle in clockwise a couple of complete turns. As a rule of thumb do three complete 360* rotations from the point where the hole on the turnbuckle freely slides on and off of the flapper valve's pivot arm.
Remember that this will probably cause your peakboost to increase and aftewards you may have to compensate by backing off a couple # with the boost controller. But, the turbo will spoolup quicker.
Another thing that you can do is install adjustable cam sprockets and advance the cam timing to +2/0, or, +1/-1. This will make her spoolup quicker in the low gears.
Also, I don't know about your particular BOV but you should be able to tighten the spring so that the valve doesn't crack as early. On a metal MR DV this is accomplished by crushing the DV.
Furthermore, your tuner can pull some timing at lower engine speeds which should also improve spool as will lean spool fuel table tinkering.
Last edited by sparky; Aug 6, 2010 at 11:53 AM.
Your sloppy methodology is frightening to me!
WTF is a "stock boost controller", anyway? There is no stock boost controller. However, there is a stock boost control solenoid(BCS). Please, try to be more specific.
Last edited by sparky; Aug 6, 2010 at 10:01 PM.
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