Ok I have a 2003 evo that made 340awhp with 334 ft tq I have a exedy twin disk clutch... long story short I was racing and brake boosted and missed second which never happens after I missed second I couldn't get it into any gear unless I turned it off and stuck it in gear and started it. When I started it it would instantly start rolling forward like it was semi engaged which caused it to slip enough to start taking off. anyway once I triend to shift it to second third or so on it wouldn't go like it was locked out but if I didn't push in the cluthch pedal at all I could shift it in to gear but was still pretty hard Anyways I pulled my tranny to see my exedy clutch.. It look pretty worn and the metal plates looked like they got pretty hot and may have warped the front steel disk so my question is should I stay with the exedy and rebuild it or upgrade it to a triple cuz I have all my performance parts to make around 600awhp on pump or should I ditch it since it failed on such low power. If so what do u recommend for clutchs I was thinking about a really aggressive act clutch with a lighter flywheel so give opinions on that to I need some help

 

stay with exedy it wore out because of the way you are driving. What do you expect LOL. it will handle 600whp easy. the only other clutch I would go with would be the QM but as most know its not a friendly DD type of clutch

 

Ya I get that but it's been in my car for 35+k but it seems like it warpped the front steel plate all I did was try one brake boost for about 2 seconds on slip time and u think it would cause that I mean I drag race it alot so I understand it gets abused but do u think that's the reason why it also would go into gear cuz it looks warpped and never disengaged ???

 

Wouldn't go into gear I meant***

 

brake boosting and slipping clutch for 2 seconds will kill any clutch. slipping a clutch is what causes heat and wear. a good driver will minimize slip under all conditions if he wants to get good life from a clutch. the triple is hella noisy compared to twin. but it does drive a tiny bit smoother than twin.

 

I agree with some of the theories above. It was the heat buildup during that brake stunt that most likely warped the disc or at least made some nasty hot spots. It was the partially engaged clutch that killed most of the discs I would think. Slamming it into gear while driving without using the clutch wont help your gear heads or any transmission internals either.

I would rebuild it into a triple, especially if you can make over 600whp on pump. How much torque are we talking about here? I am just over 500/500 and still use the Twin HD, but I never launch and am generally very easy on clutches.

I wouldn't recommend a QM for a DD. They are a pain in the *** to slip on the street and it will just be a very violent and difficult clutch for street/daily use. You already have some of the parts necessary to upgrade to a triple, so you can save a little money, get a great clutch that can hold the power and still have it tolerable on the street.

 

most 600hp pump gas cars make 450-475 tq. twin will still hold fine. if you like to launch car a lot go with tripple

 

if you have a turbo thats big enough to allow you to make 600hp on pump chances are you play with race gas/e85 and the twin will not hold up to that and launchs as said i think your best bet is to convert it to a tripple.

 

ok he does not have 600whp right now as he said he had parts to add to obtain that and as we all know alot of factors go into play so he might not make 600 off the mods he has in his closet every car is different. I say stick with the twin rebuild it as i said first its the way you were driving that warped this clutch. adjust the driver mod and the twin will be perfectly fine. since your down there add a STM fork stopper front motor mount and SS clutch line rebuild it and call it a day

 

IMO go act. Ive had a street hd for 40,000 miles. power was around 380 400 for years. Started to slip on Race Gas. Just switched to Extreme PP, Unsprung street disk , prolite FW. I hate 6 puck for DD. Ive seen numerous twins and trips fail or the clip comes out.. Just another part you have to buy(clutch stopper). Im making 500 hp 500 torque Fp RED. I know about the horror stories about the extreme PP. Its all a myth. My **** falls into gear. Also a properly shimmed trany is key..Thats the lockout issue most of the timeAct clutch is only 575-580 shipped
Good luck and practice launching all over again specially with a prolite FW.

 

Maybe you just got lucky with the ACT, but I have driven in one with issues and I know for a fact that everything with that install went correctly. Theyre results are just all over the board on setups. Some people (like you) love them and swear by them. Hell, if they worked constantly I would have gotten one and saved almost a grand! But when they are problematic, they suck. Nothing is more frustrating than having a clutch lock you out and there is no solution. You have to adjust it, doesn't work, then pull it and see what the deal is.

If you are saying that the clutch fork is just another part to buy, your right, but for 50 bucks and a guarantee that you will never have another problem with the ring clips popping then that is perfect. I would rather pay that 50 bucks, have a clutch that can hold more than that ACT, have 0 lockouts and be able to put great mileage on it. I would say that is a 50 dollars well spent. I realize you don't need this for the ACT, but I have felt the problems with them in the past, on my Honda, in an Evo, and it goes on.

These people aren't lying:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...u-bastard.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...e-anymore.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ut-thread.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ease-read.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...uck-again.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tl-tq-ftw.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-clutches.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ell-apart.html
(Look at the poll on the third one and you will see that over 45 people have had lockouts with various clutches. That is over half of the total people who posted in the poll! Around a 75% failure rate is terrible!)


I could go on and on about ACT and my experiences with them, but I think the threads above speak for themselves. I don't know about you, but I don't want to have to pull my tranny multiple times to fix a clutch that should work right the first time...

 

Stay Exedy, IF you plan on making 600 whp you will NEED a triple. There is no way that a twin will hold if your are racing/ launching the car. On our dyno, If you make 450 whp you will not be able to make it down the track on a twin.


-Em

 

Ya I drag race it every Friday and dd so I'm pretty hard on I don't care if it's alittle aggressive the exedy twin was super easy to drive so I wouldn't minds a more aggressive one I just no I launch the he'll out of it pass after pass but on the other hand I never get on it when I leave the track so that's where the dd come in to play and I know brake booting is really hard on it I just wanted to try it haha and F'd it up so what's the best bang for the buck English racing said he could upgrade to the exedy triple for around 1000 dollars since I already have the twin

 

the price is gonna depend on the condition of the floater plates and there condition. I DD on a STM spec tripple Exedy and its awesome for around town stuff. My girl drives it and she has never driven a stick and can get around town with the best of them. Go with the triple you wont be dispointed, add the clutch fork stopper while your in there and you will be back on the track in no time.

Avoid ACT, ive seen a few evos eat their trannys with that marvel of clutch technology in it.

 

i think thats about average although when i asked Strictly modified about upgrading my twin to a triple they said the one time they did it for a customer it was nothing but issues with the clutch after that so I dont know. You can get it done and let us all know how it turns out