putting an 850R on a stock block
What do u mean by vent the block? I understand venting the valve cover but were on the block? And yea I bought this turbo brand new from ams a while ago its ju st been sitting here in this box. I'm gona get the shearer fabs hot kit to put it on
It's a gamble - a game of statistics. Not a soul here can tell you with certainty what will happen any more than they can reliably predict the outcome of a dozen football games. The odds are you'll be ok with moderate power and a competent tune, but sometimes the odds don't work in one's favor, and there is no guarantee how long the engine will last. There are plenty of instances in the archives here that document this.
In short, when considering 500+whp from a stock shortblock, with its cast pistons and mediocre rods and bolts, just keep in mind that it always costs much less to build a running engine than to replace one that had a rod through the block (i.e. vent the block). The more mileage / wear and tear on a running engine, the more questionable the reliability of asking to withstand those types of power levels. It's simple logic.
It's important that one knows the facts and understands the risks. Should you grenade the motor, the cheerleaders in here who assured you that nothing would happen will vanish like a puff of smoke on a windy day.
And yes, your 80k factory clutch won't last long.
In short, when considering 500+whp from a stock shortblock, with its cast pistons and mediocre rods and bolts, just keep in mind that it always costs much less to build a running engine than to replace one that had a rod through the block (i.e. vent the block). The more mileage / wear and tear on a running engine, the more questionable the reliability of asking to withstand those types of power levels. It's simple logic.
It's important that one knows the facts and understands the risks. Should you grenade the motor, the cheerleaders in here who assured you that nothing would happen will vanish like a puff of smoke on a windy day.
And yes, your 80k factory clutch won't last long.
It's a gamble - a game of statistics. Not a soul here can tell you with certainty what will happen any more than they can reliably predict the outcome of a dozen football games. The odds are you'll be ok with moderate power and a competent tune, but sometimes the odds don't work in one's favor, and there is no guarantee how long the engine will last. There are plenty of instances in the archives here that document this.
In short, when considering 500+whp from a stock shortblock, with its cast pistons and mediocre rods and bolts, just keep in mind that it always costs much less to build a running engine than to replace one that had a rod through the block (i.e. vent the block). The more mileage / wear and tear on a running engine, the more questionable the reliability of asking to withstand those types of power levels. It's simple logic.
It's important that one knows the facts and understands the risks. Should you grenade the motor, the cheerleaders in here who assured you that nothing would happen will vanish like a puff of smoke on a windy day.
And yes, your 80k factory clutch won't last long.
In short, when considering 500+whp from a stock shortblock, with its cast pistons and mediocre rods and bolts, just keep in mind that it always costs much less to build a running engine than to replace one that had a rod through the block (i.e. vent the block). The more mileage / wear and tear on a running engine, the more questionable the reliability of asking to withstand those types of power levels. It's simple logic.
It's important that one knows the facts and understands the risks. Should you grenade the motor, the cheerleaders in here who assured you that nothing would happen will vanish like a puff of smoke on a windy day.
And yes, your 80k factory clutch won't last long.
- level up, sir...
yeah i got arp l19 studs sitting here too. what i have sitting in my room brand new right now is arp l19 headstuds, 850R turbo, kelford 272 cams, manley spring and retainer kit, hks cam wheels, all 3 gates kevlar belts. i think if i was going to do the rod bolts though and im already in there i might as well just get i beams and wiseco pistons with a 100mm 4g64 crank no?
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I would only change the rod bolts if the tech is really good and has a job like this cause if he doesn't torque them down you will properly you will spin a bearing..Ams ,buschur,and some other top shops will not even attempt to do this job being very dangerous and not so easy as people really think it is, I wouldn't touch the block unless your gonna build it that's just me my two cents install the kit and enjoy it..
Listen to TedB. to save money you can just swap to a 2.4 and then sell ur block. Or if you still want 2.3 just get it built slowly in a few months and unleash hell with no worries. I was in the same boat as you with lots of parts but realized I shouldn't skimp on the most important part of all when doing such a build. Unfortunately the evo only works well when all of it comes together like a concert, and you only need that built motor to take you to where you want to be with no worries. What i've learned is to do it right the first time and just enjoy it for the life of the car. there are built br motors with 100k so its reliable, but stock block high hp / below 400tq is just "risky" still and also forces you to not get that torque, wheras if you go built you can handle more tq
yeah i got arp l19 studs sitting here too. what i have sitting in my room brand new right now is arp l19 headstuds, 850R turbo, kelford 272 cams, manley spring and retainer kit, hks cam wheels, all 3 gates kevlar belts. i think if i was going to do the rod bolts though and im already in there i might as well just get i beams and wiseco pistons with a 100mm 4g64 crank no?
Listen to TedB. to save money you can just swap to a 2.4 and then sell ur block. Or if you still want 2.3 just get it built slowly in a few months and unleash hell with no worries. I was in the same boat as you with lots of parts but realized I shouldn't skimp on the most important part of all when doing such a build. Unfortunately the evo only works well when all of it comes together like a concert, and you only need that built motor to take you to where you want to be with no worries. What i've learned is to do it right the first time and just enjoy it for the life of the car. there are built br motors with 100k so its reliable, but stock block high hp / below 400tq is just "risky" still and also forces you to not get that torque, wheras if you go built you can handle more tq
ready for half time for awhile 
It's a gamble - a game of statistics. Not a soul here can tell you with certainty what will happen any more than they can reliably predict the outcome of a dozen football games. The odds are you'll be ok with moderate power and a competent tune, but sometimes the odds don't work in one's favor, and there is no guarantee how long the engine will last. There are plenty of instances in the archives here that document this.
In short, when considering 500+whp from a stock shortblock, with its cast pistons and mediocre rods and bolts, just keep in mind that it always costs much less to build a running engine than to replace one that had a rod through the block (i.e. vent the block). The more mileage / wear and tear on a running engine, the more questionable the reliability of asking to withstand those types of power levels. It's simple logic.
It's important that one knows the facts and understands the risks. Should you grenade the motor, the cheerleaders in here who assured you that nothing would happen will vanish like a puff of smoke on a windy day.
And yes, your 80k factory clutch won't last long.
In short, when considering 500+whp from a stock shortblock, with its cast pistons and mediocre rods and bolts, just keep in mind that it always costs much less to build a running engine than to replace one that had a rod through the block (i.e. vent the block). The more mileage / wear and tear on a running engine, the more questionable the reliability of asking to withstand those types of power levels. It's simple logic.
It's important that one knows the facts and understands the risks. Should you grenade the motor, the cheerleaders in here who assured you that nothing would happen will vanish like a puff of smoke on a windy day.
And yes, your 80k factory clutch won't last long.
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