Hey, I posted this on the engine forum and didn't get a single reply, so I'm gunna try again here lol.

Hey guys, just following up on an earlier thread. I'm doing a 2.3 build and I'm looking to build a fun responsive car for the street and some autocross.

So far my build looks like this:

JE forged 2.3 stroker pistons +.5mm
Manly 100mm forged crank
Eagle 150mm h-beam rods
Ferrera 6000 series valves
GSC PowerDivision S2 cams
GSC Beehives w/ Ti retainers
Fidanza adjustable cam gears
ACL Race main/rods
ARP head/ main studs
OEM master gasket set
Tommi Makinen 6.5 RS Turbo (w/ 10.5cm^2 hot side and double port waste gate)
1000cc injectors (not purchased yet, but looking at RC and FIC)
Exedy twin plate clutch

I will be doing the assembly and all the machine work myself in-house (balanced, line bored, bored + honed with a torque plate)

But I have a few questions:

Does any one have any idea about what the power of this engine will be?

What is a safe boost to run on pump gas?

How high can I safely rev this build?

Should I remove my balnce shafts? I would prefer to have an engine that doesn't shake like crazy... Are 4G64 shafts any different than the 4G63's?

I know a lot of people are going to say that my turbo is undersized, but I did an airflow analysis and at 20 psi I stay above 73% efficiency most of the time, and dont really fall off until 6500 (This is if I did my calcs correctly). At 7500 I'm flowing 580cfm at 65% efficiency. All this should spool below 3000 rpm.

Any input appreciated!

 

The power you will produce will be dependant on the amount of boost you run.

A "safe" amount of boost depends on your tune.

Based on your R/S ratio you should be safe to about 8-8.5k depending on how meticulous you were in balancing your internals, however above 8k you will see diminished returns as your head will not be able to flow enough to feed your motor.

Yes you should remove your balance shaft and use something like the AMS BS removal kit.

Have you looked at the JID2 2.3 build yet? It's a sticky and will pretty much answer any question you have.

 

you need to remove your balance shafts as they come into contact with the enlarged crankshaft.

 

No, but i'll take a look at it

 

Well I rebuilt and ported the TME turbo last night. Came out pretty damn good I think

 

when i have my 2.3 9.6.1 compression with a 9 turbo i tune it to 24 psi, the dam turbo tapper to 19 psi @ 4300 rpm, i manage to get a 390 tq and 360 whp on pump gas.

The 2.3 motor is nice setup for autocross and stret, i wont rev more than redline or 7500 rpm max.

 

take the balance shafts, is worth it and the vibration is not that bad.

 

Wow thats a pretty high comp ratio. Impressive #'s on pump gas tho. 91 or 93?

Yea I called AMS and they highly recommended removing my balance shafts. I'll just end up turning them down on my lathe (because its free lol)

 

i was tuned on 93 and i run over 30 psi, its all in your tune

 

damn, I didn't know I could run so much boost.

So, is there a way to tune boost based on RPM?

 

im running an evo 8 turbo and getting 21psi but it is around 24psi in 4th n 5th gear. which is expected.

im pretty certain you need to machine or remove ur balance shafts as they wont clear the bigger crank but i may be wrong.
i was recommended to machine the balance shaft that runs off the oil pump and remove the other. the reason for machining the one with the oil pump is because without the balance shaft as a counterweight the pump gears have been known to float and wear itself out or sieze if there is no counter balance on the other end of it keeping it centered. (if this makes sense)

i barely noticed any difference in the vibration from the engine without the balance shafts.

i made 240kw at the wheels on a conservative dyno and 627lb-ft torque @ 4500RPM
this was with extensive porting on both intake and exhaust and kelford 272 cams.
i was told the turbo was the limiting factor stopping me from making any more power as it just couldnt flow any more air. so if you want to make more power upgrading the turbo is the way to go. looks like youve made a good start with the porting it looks good. wish i thought of doing that when i had my turbo off.

the main thing you will notice is no lag down low compared to the 2l.
i dont rev mine past redline which is 7000 and the rev limit is set at about 7500 and i wouldnt go anywhere past this.
you will notice the turbo will be really responsive and powerfull down low and through the midband of the revs but it will flatten off up high. this is where ur cam choice is important.
your powerband will be around the midrange anyway and start tapering off as you go past 6000 as youve already worked out with ur turbo analysis so you dont really need to worry about revving it high anyways as you wont be making any decent power up there to begin with.

to answer your questions:

Does any one have any idea about what the power of this engine will be?

depends on your octane rating of your gas ( sorry you guys have different octane ratings to us in new zealand so i couldnt comment on this)
id say you will be looking at about 250kw roughly. depends on how accurate the dyno is. again your turbo will be the limiting factor here. u probably dont need 1000cc injectors until u get a bigger turbo. the stock injectors should be perfectly capable of flowing enough gas and will give u a more vapourised spray pattern than the bigger 1000cc injectors. i personally would hold off untill you upgrade your turbo.

What is a safe boost to run on pump gas?

i would say you should be fine running as much at the turbo can flow which will be around 20 - 25 psi.

How high can I safely rev this build?

7000 would be a safe redline with rev limit set around 7500 - 7800. your tuner should know what a safe redline is.

Should I remove my balnce shafts? I would prefer to have an engine that doesn't shake like crazy... Are 4G64 shafts any different than the 4G63's?

you will barely notice a difference in engine vibration. the engine note will change tho it sounds more grunty. remove completely the one thats not attached to the oil pump but machine the one that runs off the back of the oil pump due to the reasons i mentioned earlier.

feel free to pm me if you want me to expand on anything i have said or have any other questions.
and to anybody else if i havnt been entirely accurate feel free to correct me, i have answered the questions to the best of my knowledge and from personal experience carrying out my own 2.3l build.

hope it all goes well.

 

Thanks for that full reply beerad.- you were right, one balance shaft interferes with the 100mm crank, so I have to turn it down on a lathe similar to how AMS does theirs.

I'll be running 93 octane, but yeah our ratings are done differently so it probably doesn't mean anything to you lol.

Yeah, I figured that I wouldn't want to run it at a much higher RPM than stock w/ the longer stroke. Sould be nice when I upgrade my turbo though

 

And the build begins!
EDIT: Got a Manley crank at same price as Eagle's. Eagle rods were wrong (21 mm pin 6 bolt DSM), sent them back and got some Manley H-Beams.

Doing this build RIGHT with a BHJ torque plate (If anyone needs a 4G series engine bored, Advanced Automotive of Carmel, NY has this plate now!)

JE forged 2.3 stroker piston 8.5:1 CR +.5mm oversized

ARP studded main

Torque plate on

In the boring bar

Honed out PERFECT- no funneling, less then a quarter of a thou out of round at the worst point!

File-fitting rings

Crank in to measure end-play


Measuring piston-to-deck height

As it sits now

 

looks good bro. make sure u update with the power figure you end up making. pretty keen 2 find out what you make.
have a look at the blox rigid front engine mount. just put one in last night and its made a huge difference. slight bit mre vibration at idle which iv been told will go away after about a month but you get a totally different exhaust note and instant response when the throttle is pressed.
this mod has made the most difference out of all my small mods ive done since my engine has been out.

 

91 octane, as of right now i change to hta3076 and im doing close to 475 whp on a mustang dyno on 91 octane, ill be tunning on 109 and see what happen!