Problem is still here. I ran a 13.2 with my STOCK CLUTCH making 245whp, and now I ran a 13.8 coasting with 340 whp because IT WON'T ****ING SHIFT!!!


No thanks to clutchmaster with their minimal help. Garbage customer service but a super slick clutch when they work.


First off, I am NOT bashing CM I just need some Ideas on how to Solve my Lockout Issue. This is an AWESOME DD clutch , by far the nicest I have ever owned (besides the lockout )

Anywhoo....

So I installed my new clutch about 3 weeks ago ( ACT 13.1 lb fw, CM FX300) Everything feels great untill I try 7k shifts . It seriously just chills outside the gear for like 2 seconds before it finally clunks in like it used to do. It will do this in 2-3-4 gear shifts. It doesn't have a problem down shifting at all.

I did the 800 mile break in period without high boost/shifts ( It said minimun 500 miles). Everything was torqued to specs. Blah Blah Blah

What I have done :

Bleed the slave/master ( maybe I should have done this first thing?)

Bleed it again.

Check the shift cables ( can't really mess these up can you? haha)

Adjust clutch pedal.

B!tch about $1k in parts and can't racecar my shheeiit.

Call ClutchMasters politely and ask for a full refund if I am unable to solve this myself.


PS i'm running the same Redline MT90 mix that I always use. I AM the greatest/fastest shifter in all the world lol. This has never happened with my stock clutch, even at 7.5k shifts.

Any input other than SEARRCCHHH would be great thanks guys

Edited because I do love this clutch even tho I cant shift at high rpms.

 

Ouch , no love from the forums. *sigh*

 

try a solid motormount. keeps ACT clutches from doing the same thing.

 

Really ? What is the theory behind this ?

Thanks for your input

 

Having sold and installed over 100 CM STG3 clutches I would stay its in the adjustment of the clutch first and formost.

Second Clutchmasters has the best customer service I have ever seen so call Luis down there and tell him the issue first. This clutch (if broken in properly) is amazing. I doubt its the clutch more or less adjustment or tranny fluid ect.

Having seen 50k + out of it with over 200 + launchs and 40 + track days also several making 600 whp + on it. The kevlar full face material makes for a exellent dd clutch, better than stock IMO and with long life and a awsome pressure plate design it really is the ultimate clutch for the evo. So I am suprised to hear and bad things.

LMK what happens

Evan Smith

 

Yeah I read reviews about this clutch thats why I bought it. And thats also why i'm worried because this has easily been the nicest "race" clutch I have ever had hands down ( besides the high rpm shifts)

I Will keep my thread updated. I really want to be able to use this clutch because it is FREAKING awesome for street driving.

Thanks for the input guys. I will probably have time this sat to fix/adjust everything

 

Any updates on this?

-Jalal

 

Still doing it. I emailed them and they said " this is a commen problem with evo's not our clutch" . Of course this is what i expected to hear. My stock clutch would shift like butter even at rev limiter. But im going to try a couple more things. To try and solve this matter or get my refund.

I bled and readjusted the clutch like 4 times already.

I am running red line 90 wt, this might be a problem as it is really cold in utah right now. But it was in the 90's when i put it in sooo.

Im going to replace the fluid with some oem to see if that helps at all.

I will be getting a refund because this is not a "typical evo problem" .

1k for a clutch to not have it work properly...... lame

 

Bleeding and adjustments only go so far. The rotating assembly and synchros has a hard time aligning at those rpms...regardless of what single disk it is. A lot of times even the OEM clutch will do it.

Main cause is engine movement. I would look at least a lower front mount which helps stop the engine movement back and forth. Quite a few brands to choose from. Also side mounts can help as well but transmit more vibrations to the cabin unless you get a softer durometer urethane mount. Make sure you don't have the clutch restrictor pill in there.

I would switch to a fluid to flows better at cold temperatures...I.E. Amsoil or Motul is far superior to MT90 imo. That isn't the cause of your lockout though. Try all that and if it still lockouts then well...maybe twin disk is in your future if you need to bang gears at high rpm's.

 

surprised to hear this as well. I agree with everything that has been said about CM. I have the same clutch for dd/track and it shift like butter. Only difference is I have the fidanza LW flywheel. keep us updated on what happens. gl with everything

 

try a twin disc. solved all lock out issues i had. A lot of people say going to a twin was the only way to stop their high rpm lockout.

 

Yeah I will buy a front motor mount tonight. And I do have the restrictor pill in there still. I haven't had a chance to play around with it too much because of school and such. But tonight I will remove the restrictor pill and change the fluid and rebleed everything.

Thanks man.

If I can't solve this then I will start saving for a twin



Oh yeah how much more vibration do the solid front motor mounts make? I bought solid mounts in my honda days and they made my car shake like crazy lol.

 

Oh man take the restrictor pill out. This is 90% of your problem...a small orifice restricting engagement is a headache and quick way to prematurely wear the clutch although easier on the T-case.

A decent front mount adds very little vibration. There is powerflex or others which are 70A durometer IIRC. I assume you still being on a single disk you aren't making a ton of power so a 70A mount will be enough.

 

I just installed a front motor mount to go along with the torque dampener and I have to say if my car shook anymore I would be unhappy. I have a Blox front mount which is a nice piece and cheap. It has really helped with high rpm shifting and the overall feel of the engagement. It is livable but anymore would be a deal breaker for me with it being a daily driver. Subscribed to this thread to see if you get this figured out. I am looking to replace my stock clutch soon and if this issue can be resolved then I think I've found my new clutch. Good luck. I think the front mount will help.

I will add that the vibration may not be as big of a deal to some people. I am just not a fan of adding a gob of NVH if I can avoid it. I might just be getting old.

 

I Make 245whp hahaha , so your assumptions are correct. Thanks for the info.


I know what you mean, I'm over having loud obnoxious cars even if they are fast haha.

I will keep everyone updated for sure this time haha

Thanks for all the info guys!