And that is the correct way to do business, if you want to know how long you can take your oil for your application is sending a sample and getting a baseline for how long your engine is allowing you to run the oil.

 

Well bottom line is you have built and seen more 4G's in your life that anyone of us in this thread, and 20W50 has worked, i still say that a good oil high quality with high film streanght and good heat resistant at least a 3.0 above will do better than brad penn, mobil and some others, heck even castrol has done better than those mentionned.

 

yep here we go just found it:

http://evoempire.org/index.php?/topi...lysis-results/

the OP is using amsoil 10w-30 running on 91oct and the guy in the 5th post down is running mobil 5w-40 w/ e85

hope this helps

 

drove 50miles(one way) earlier to buy a case of brad penn

 

Mobil-1 5w-40 FTMFW!!!!!!!!!

 

I've been going to the dirt track lately to watch a friend that runs super late-model class. He is a regular top 3 finisher with several wins. He is running a 355 ci SBC, somewhere around 15-1 compression making about 700hp and winding it 9k lap after lap.

Him and almost every driver in that class run Brad Penn 20-50.

So the BP Green Oil must be pretty decent stuff. Any reasons it would not also work as well in our smaller engines? outside of the Turbo, are there any major differences in the oil function between a racing v8 and a high HP 4G63?

 

At a glance one might see similarities, but in fact there are numerous differences...

5.7L generating 700hp has the same specific output as a 2.0L generating only 245hp, which is less than a bone stock EVO. Secondly, the NA engine doesn't have a turbo, so it doesn't have a major source of heat aside from the engine. Neither does a light, dirt track car present the same load on the engine as a 3000+lb street-legal sedan. Finally, a dirt track engine should have very frequent oil changes, and isn't expected to last anywhere near 80-100k miles.

Apples and oranges.

 

Aaron will a 5 /50 synth work as well as your 20 /50?

I like Schaeffer's oil http://www.schaefferoil.com/supreme_...acing_oil.html

they have a 20 50 to, I just don't know if the 5 vrs 20 part of the formula is the issue you know about with these engines.

 

me and a friend installed fp red today.. talking to FP's tech line their guy says to run nothing but 20w50 .. and that they have good results w/ brad penn...

so i went to a local race shop who happens to keep it in stock while buying it i asked is this stuff good? all 3 guys in there that work there and build cars SWORE by it in any car alcohol, gas, race gas, E85 and that they have used it in motors for over 7 passes on alcohol and when changing it it looked like new....

so needless to say i bought 5 quarts, the stuff is green, and i am now running it in my car...

fp red 84mm
E85

brad penn 20w50...... we will see what happens i guess?

unless someone out there knows this is wrong and i should switch?

 

I would base that on what the oil pressure is at let's say 7 to 8k. It seems as though they have pretty aggressive additives (fillers), they are a blended synthetic engineered for good coverage.

Having never used it or actually seen it until now I cant say. The only 5-50 experience I have had has been Castrol SynTec, and I havent used that in years and never in a turbocharged engine.

I am without data on this one and would be forced to speculate

Aaron

 

Thanks for the info OP, I just bought some Amsoil 20w50 to try this time around instead of the 10w30 I have been running

 

Bump just b/c

 

Thought I had finally decided on Amsoil 0w - 30 for my stock block and HTA green....

Back to the boards to research more....

 

Just a few thoughts I had while reading through all this.

- when deciding what grade/thickness of oil is to be used, does one consider what environment they will be using the car in -e.g cold, warm or hot temperatures

- i read some people are talking about oil breaking down after x many miles etc, I would suspect that some people may be skimping on oil changes.

I as well as many others will make sure oil is fresh before any track work, and oil is imediately dumped for fresh oil after track work. Could it be that some people are tracking or driving hard and are not changing their oil more regularly.

In my opinion, and i may be wrong and even way off but if you drive hard, youre expected to change your oil more regularly and cant expect it to go the distance compared with someone using the same oil taking it easy and just doing highway cruising miles...

again i may be way off but i get the impression that the oil change interval is a major factor in these problems and not just the oil grade.

 

one thing I havent seen discussed all these oil threads is the engine bearing clearances. it seems this knowledge is completely lacking. modern engines are built with extremely tight bearing clearances. very near .001 for mains and .0015 for rods. this includes the factory built 4g63 turbo engine.

now if you are running a built engine those tight bearing clearances go right out the window. your built motor will have bearing clearances in the .002-.0025 range.

BIG difference in oil viscosity requirements between the two. yet in ALL these threads it is never mentioned. 20w-50 is great for built engines. but might not be the best idea for an engine with very small clearances.