evolotion357

iTrader: (2)

Hey all,
Recently I replaced my oil pan in my car. Afterwards my car would not go above 18lbs of boost and started to burn oil. I will give you a little back story on the car first.

My car is fairly built. The engine is stroked to a 2.3, has 272 cams, a Magnus Intake Mani, and an FP Red turbo with some other goodies. Both the engine and the turbo have 20k miles on them and worked fine prior to me replacing the oil pan. Now, I upgraded to the AMS baffled oil pan. During installation I encountered an issue. There are two pieces of metal that came with the pan. One is the piece that catches the oil and lets it seep into the pan. The second piece goes on prior to the first piece that sits around the crank.

When I first went to start the car it would not start. The starter just clicked and did nothing. At first I thought that the starter or battery was bad but after replacing both the car did not start. I then dropped the pan back down to find that the crank was stuck on the second piece of metal. The piece of metal was bent so I removed it. I then put the first metal plate back on and then spun the crank with a ratchet to make sure it cleared. Now, I did turn the crank counter clockwise, which according to the service manual is a big no no. I did notice that while turning the crank clockwise that it reaches a point where it hesitates to rotate and it needs a little extra oompf. I don't know anything about engines so I do not know if that is normal.

The car, when driving does not make over 18lbs of boost and occasionally stalls from time to time. Oil smoke comes out of my breather and exhaust but the car idles without making any noise. I took the spark plugs out today and found that they were solid black and oily.

I checked the turbo turbine for play but it seems solid. I am going to double check the timing to make sure it is right but I do not think it was altered. Do any of you have any suggestions as to what it might be or what I should try to see if there is anything I can do? I am going to be pissed at myself if I borked my engine since it only has 20k miles on it.


Thanks and sorry for the wall of text,
Josh

asubennett

iTrader: (5)

I am very worried for you and your wallet. Firing up a motor against a piece of metal first runs a high risk of beding a rod or jacking up a rod bearing.

Your occasional stalling leads me to believe this has happened.

CammedEvo

iTrader: (5)

stalling has nothing to do with a rod or rod bearing.. I've seen motors rip with rod knock until they stalled for good.
Also how do you bend a rod when theres no pressure on it? The crank was stopped from moving... I could understand starting a motor that the piston couldn't move up on and damaging a rod that way. IE water filled cylinder


Compression test your car. Seems as if oil isn't flowing properly and you've damaged your rings.

this also could be a turbo problem check it for forward/back play.. check your ic pipes for massive ammounts of blowby

asubennett

iTrader: (5)

Super low oil pressure doesnt cause a car to stall? A very messed up rod bearing cant cause super low oil pressure? He wedged a piece of metal between the crank and block hard enough to bend the metal. You dont think that put some awkward tension on the rods?

I hope its something minor but when you seal up a motor with loose pices of metal that are being bound hard enough to stop the crank that is not good.

CammedEvo

iTrader: (5)

just so we clear this up..

low oil pressure will not directly cause a car to stall.

superlow oil pressure goes hand and hand with stalling since the oil pump is gear driven.

i just finished tuning a car that had a ams race balance shaft that at 900rpms barely had 12psi of oil pressure and it didn't stall.

And i spun a rod bearing.. my car didn't stall..

im not goign to say that the car doesn't have some damaged parts down there.. but it appears that the rings are toasted.. he needs to compression test it.

or the turbos dead.. or both.. or all three.. none the less dont drive it.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

Back on topic you may have jumped the timing belt a few teeth. Getting hard spots when cranking an engine manually are normal. Check the timing belt timing. The piece you removed was there for a reason it's made to scrape oil off the crank but I guess it's not made for a strocker.

CammedEvo

iTrader: (5)

**** i never even though about it.. but you rotate counter clockwise and that is what happens..


zing..

evolotion357

iTrader: (2)

I was talking to a mechanic today and he said it possible that I may have messed up one the rings. I am going to pull the engine out and take it apart and replace whatever needs to be replaced. The engine does sound fine when running which makes me believe that it isn't something extremely major. The turbo seems fine and there is no play in the shaft other than the little bit of up and down. I will let you all know how it goes as I get around to it.

Thanks all for your input

Josh

evolotion357

iTrader: (2)

Also, the metal piece that was on the pan did not wedge against the block. It just stopped the crank in the one spot where it came down. I don't think any major damage was done because the crank looked fine when I had the pan off. I am thinking rings if anything because of the oil on the sparks but I do not know enough about engines to be sure until I tear it apart.

Guppie1337

iTrader: (1)

maybe your timing slipped enough to cause misfires? Lifters seizing randomly upon boost?