People with FP black or Reds!
I had the original 64mm Red. I never used anything but mobil 1. I pulled it off and sold it after about 10k miles, few dozen drag strip passes and dyno pulls. Guy I sold it too still has it on his car.
That's good that it worked out for you, but I'd listento the manufacturer on what they will and won't waranty on something like a turbo. I'm not rich, ad I'd much rather spend a little extra on oil
changes to get the reccomended oil rather than havin to pay for a rebuild (if it came to that).
I was using mobile 1 in my talon, then spun a rod bearing. I dunno if it was because of something else or not (only thing I changed was my oil brand though) but I've since been using everything amsoil and loving the stuff. That's what I'll be running when I get my red/black
changes to get the reccomended oil rather than havin to pay for a rebuild (if it came to that).
I was using mobile 1 in my talon, then spun a rod bearing. I dunno if it was because of something else or not (only thing I changed was my oil brand though) but I've since been using everything amsoil and loving the stuff. That's what I'll be running when I get my red/black
yep. There is also less detergents in brad penn since its a racing oil. I will say this though....... if all you run is e85 then you may as well run the brad penn because you should be changing the oil around 1000-1500 miles with e85 since it slowly dilutes the oil. Amsoil is more useful for people that want to run for 3-5k miles without worrying about anything. Im willing to bet that amsoil premium synthetic is rated to go for 15,000 miles.
That's good that it worked out for you, but I'd listento the manufacturer on what they will and won't waranty on something like a turbo. I'm not rich, ad I'd much rather spend a little extra on oil
changes to get the reccomended oil rather than havin to pay for a rebuild (if it came to that).
I was using mobile 1 in my talon, then spun a rod bearing. I dunno if it was because of something else or not (only thing I changed was my oil brand though) but I've since been using everything amsoil and loving the stuff. That's what I'll be running when I get my red/black
changes to get the reccomended oil rather than havin to pay for a rebuild (if it came to that).
I was using mobile 1 in my talon, then spun a rod bearing. I dunno if it was because of something else or not (only thing I changed was my oil brand though) but I've since been using everything amsoil and loving the stuff. That's what I'll be running when I get my red/black
yep. There is also less detergents in brad penn since its a racing oil. I will say this though....... if all you run is e85 then you may as well run the brad penn because you should be changing the oil around 1000-1500 miles with e85 since it slowly dilutes the oil. Amsoil is more useful for people that want to run for 3-5k miles without worrying about anything. Im willing to bet that amsoil premium synthetic is rated to go for 15,000 miles.
I was referring to the premium synthetic tho..... i even listed it. I never ran racing dominator so i never researched it. it doesn't come in 20w50 so i never bothered with it.
Im not sure. i have the same motor you got. are you gonna run that? going 3k miles with no change is a hell of a lot better then changing every 1k...... I dont know how important the numbers are but i just found this on google http://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-an...-15w-50-a.html
just the oil filter savings alone are worth it and the trips back and forth with old oil.
Dave told me to run 20w50 only, so i dunno
just the oil filter savings alone are worth it and the trips back and forth with old oil.
Dave told me to run 20w50 only, so i dunno
Last edited by tscompusa2; Oct 28, 2010 at 07:40 PM.
Yeah, I talked to Adny and he recommended the 15w50 from the Racing Dominator as the best of the best if I was gonna run my oil for no more then 3k miles. Or if I wanted to run a little longer the AMO at a 10w40.
David told me the same thing and I believe the first number is the cold pour the second number is when the oil is at operating temp so as I see it the first number is less important except when talking about a conventional oil because they have to add viscosity modifiers which takes away from actual lubricating oil where as the 100% Synthetics dont use that modifier they are just have a naturally good cold pur number and they only show a multi weight number to help the public identify it as somethign that can be used in cold weather.
Of course with all the research I have done in the past week I may be getting something mixed up and Im sure Andy can set this straight if I am wrong, so don't take my word as gospel.
David told me the same thing and I believe the first number is the cold pour the second number is when the oil is at operating temp so as I see it the first number is less important except when talking about a conventional oil because they have to add viscosity modifiers which takes away from actual lubricating oil where as the 100% Synthetics dont use that modifier they are just have a naturally good cold pur number and they only show a multi weight number to help the public identify it as somethign that can be used in cold weather.
Of course with all the research I have done in the past week I may be getting something mixed up and Im sure Andy can set this straight if I am wrong, so don't take my word as gospel.
That doesnt say much about the actual cold pour numbers but it does say something baout a Sythetic oils ability to adhere to the surface of engine components after a few days without running.
yep. There is also less detergents in brad penn since its a racing oil. I will say this though....... if all you run is e85 then you may as well run the brad penn because you should be changing the oil around 1000-1500 miles with e85 since it slowly dilutes the oil. Amsoil is more useful for people that want to run for 3-5k miles without worrying about anything. Im willing to bet that amsoil premium synthetic is rated to go for 15,000 miles.
it doesnt feel right to me but the darn oil passed the oil analysis lab without issues. i guess i then started to believe in my own products
remember in the case of a built engine the faster you can spin it the more power, the thicker the oil the slower it will let you spin it, that is why you see the 15W50 because it will flow better than a conventional 20.
hopefully i made sence.