A lot of good feedback, thank you gents. I may give amsoil a try, I have run rp sine day one in the motor, tranny, t case and rear diff and have been very happy with it. If I switch to amsoil and don't like it, I can always switch back. On a side note with the upgraded Fp line, do I change the in line filter with every oil change?

 

I have a HTA green for 6 months and I've been using Motul 8100 5w40 and I have no issue at all!

 

No, but you should inspect and address if necessary....If you have particles in the filter you probably have bigger issues.

 

I had done the same thing when I had my mr2 turbo. I lost power when using 20w50 compared to 10w30, even when both oils were fully warmed up. I think that if you did the testing back to back without letting the oils warm up then you will lose even more. IIRC my numbers were like 15 ish or so.

 

Sorry I should have specified - in all tests oil was brought to operating temperature before dyno runs were made. I never take the car above 4K until car is at operating temperature.

 

there was a shop down in south florida, i dont recall the shop name, they had an eneos oil guy come down and run his oil on the dyno and same issues came up power loss,,, thats the reason that shop does not run 50 weight on a low powered car.
Anything over 650 WHP i would not worry about oil thickness specially in a turbo charged car where the oil is being cooked 10W40 and 50 is cool, but anything in the neighbourhood of 350 - 475 you WILL loose power its just simple physics. i dont know how much you will loose it its 1 hp or 20, but i can for sure tell you that you will loose, its so simple to understand that using the same oil pump OEM at XX psi and using the same clerances that mitsu designed your engine and trying to pump a 50 oil through there the answer us yes you will hold the engine back.

maybe there is a reason why F1, and many other 24 hr races use very very thin oil like 0W20's 5W20's ect.....

 

power loss aside, its just stupid to run a 50wt in a stock motor unless you are towing a camper uphill in death valley.

 

Off topic, but I have seen the qualifying oil nascar teams use. That stuff looks like a straight 0w. The engine builder I knew said that oil is only good for a few hundred miles, just last long enough for their qualifying runs.

 

Lmao!! That is so funny!! I'm going with 30 hot weight for sure.

 

or Redline

 

right because they need that enigne to spin fast, there is no time for drag and friction and thick oils cause to much of that,,,, you will see mark my words a few years from now the same people that say thick oils are the way to go and dont hold your engine back will be forced to use a thinner oil,,,,, why because thick oils wont be available

its all about film strengh not many folks get this topic straight, lets put it this way oil is a fluids and fluids do not compress, therfore the goal is to design an oil that can be thin enough but at the same time be ale to combat the break down of heat, and all the other varibles oils have to combat against of.


Andy

 

I haven't seen many people run redline, is it expensive compared to amsoil or rp?

 

Redline is a bit cheaper and easier to get than Amsoil in Australia. Redline is Ester based so is Motul 300V which is another good oil.

 

I just changed my oil to Mobil 1 "0W-40" This is the best oil I have ever put in my Evo...period!!!!!!!!!! It starts up without a hint of noise in 40 degree weather perfectly,
due to it's "0 weight when cold and lubricates and protects with a 40 weight when hot. The engine seems smoother and runs quieter and under full accelaration too. This oil has excellent Phos and Zinc quantities.

 

Is that the M1 European car formula stuff?