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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 03:21 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by sparky
That is very good motor oil. It is a racing oil however, and may require shorter drain intervals. A more economical alternative for a non-competition car might be the Motul X-CESS 5W-40.
You have a good point. Although I do quite a few trackdays and hill runs, I may consider your alternative.
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 06:56 PM
  #62  
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Alright, amsoil 0w - 30 or mobile 1 0w - 40. Please cast your votes fellas!!
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 07:40 PM
  #63  
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Mobil-1 0W-40 for me....excellent flow when cold and more protection vs. a 30 weight when hot
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 08:12 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by miragevo
Mobil-1 0W-40 for me....excellent flow when cold and more protection vs. a 30 weight when hot
Thank you sir! Mobile 1 - 1, Amsoil - 0
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 08:31 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by sir monster
You have a good point. Although I do quite a few trackdays and hill runs, I may consider your alternative.
Definitely, if you can afford it, then run the Motul 5W-40 300V in your Evo. This is the oil that I would run in my Evo if I could afford to do so. I figure that it is among the top five motor oil choices available to Evo owners.

My problem is that I have three vehicles, one of which, the MB 500G has a 10 quart oil capacity, a turbo diesel p/u with a 6 qt. capacity and the Evo with its 5 qt. capacity. I drive a lot of miles...so 21 quarts every month or so is expensive for me.

I have been running Mobil1 OW-40 in the MB and the Evo and either Mobil1 Delvac 5W-40, or Motul X-CESS 5W-40 100% synthetic in the turbodiesel p/u.

I can obtain the Motul X-CESS 5W-40 at a lot cheaper price than either the Mobil1 0W-40, or, the Mobil1 Delvac 5W-40. So, I am debating whether to run the Motul X-CESS 5W-40 in all of my vehicles, including the Evo.

Last edited by sparky; Nov 3, 2010 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 12:16 PM
  #66  
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Alright this is getting down right frustrating....

So after all the research the great input from fellow evom guys I though I had decided on the perfect oil for my application....Amsoil 0w - 30. Good for cold starts, still has the 30 hot weight to protect my HTA green and it's Amsoil, nuf said. Reading on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ made me think my decision was perfect, hearing all the high performance cars that run a 0w(I know its a different application, but if it's good enough for a ferrari then I would think my evo wouldn't complain). Then I read another thread but JB....https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...on-thread.html.

Now I am thinking a 0w may be too thin. I know this topic has been beaten beyond death but I will not run oil that will hurt my motor or turbo. To complicate this situation even more I called FP and talked to Robert, he said to stick with the RP 10w0- 30 I have been running...

I feel like I am back to square one, I know I should try and "see what my car likes" but what if she doesn't like it and it costs thousands....

So fellas is there something I am missing? Am I giving this WAY to much thought, time and effort?...
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 12:36 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by EvolutinIX
Alright this is getting down right frustrating....

So after all the research the great input from fellow evom guys I though I had decided on the perfect oil for my application....Amsoil 0w - 30. Good for cold starts, still has the 30 hot weight to protect my HTA green and it's Amsoil, nuf said. Reading on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ made me think my decision was perfect, hearing all the high performance cars that run a 0w(I know its a different application, but if it's good enough for a ferrari then I would think my evo wouldn't complain). Then I read another thread but JB....https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...on-thread.html.

Now I am thinking a 0w may be too thin. I know this topic has been beaten beyond death but I will not run oil that will hurt my motor or turbo. To complicate this situation even more I called FP and talked to Robert, he said to stick with the RP 10w0- 30 I have been running...

I feel like I am back to square one, I know I should try and "see what my car likes" but what if she doesn't like it and it costs thousands....


So fellas is there something I am missing? Am I giving this WAY to much thought, time and effort?...


Go back and re-read bobistheoilguy again, because you obviously missed something. After you finish reading it again, you will realize that in choosing a 0W-30 oil, the 0W is not thin enough!!!
The 30 weight in a 0W-30 is what's going to protect your turbo when hot, not the 0W. The 0W is what's going to get to your turbo the fastest when cold so the bearing doesn't see metal to metal when you start it up cold. Most of your wear happens on a cold start up. Don't get into the boost until your engine oil temps are up and the engine feels free like it wants to rev. And at this point slowly ramp up little by little. Do this and your turbo will outlast the engine.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by miragevo
Go back and re-read bobistheoilguy again, because you obviously missed something. After you finish reading it again, you will realize that in choosing a 0W-30 oil, the 0W is not thin enough!!!
The 30 weight in a 0W-30 is what's going to protect your turbo when hot, not the 0W. The 0W is what's going to get to your turbo the fastest when cold so the bearing doesn't see metal to metal when you start it up cold. Most of your wear happens on a cold start up. Don't get into the boost until your engine oil temps are up and the engine feels free like it wants to rev. And at this point slowly ramp up little by little. Do this and your turbo will outlast the engine.

I thought the Amsoil 0w - 30 was the ticket, one thing I always do reguardless of outside temp is let my baby warm up. I warm her up about 15 mins in the winter and 5 - 10 mins in the summer. I don't even touch the gas until the coolant temp is at operating temp....

So to hot weight if recommends a 30 why did you go with the 40?
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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Don't use the coolant temp as indicator that your engine is ready for a beating. Your oil temp should be the deciding factor.

I deviated from Mitsu's 5W-30 recommendations by Using a 0W-40 which gives me better flow when cold and better protection when hot. I one-upped it at both ends of the spectrum. Mobil-1 0W-40 also had great phos and zinc percentages without going overboard....according to oil Bob. See mobil's chart below. BTW I just put in the mobil-1 0W-40 and it starts up like the 5W-30 and the engine sounds quieter and accelerates like a thin oil and doesn't feel held back, like the feeling of adding too thick of an oil. i feel it's the perfect happy medium.


http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by miragevo
Don't use the coolant temp as indicator that your engine is ready for a beating. Your oil temp should be the deciding factor.

I deviated from Mitsu's 5W-30 recommendations by Using a 0W-40 which gives me better flow when cold and better protection when hot. I one-upped it at both ends of the spectrum. Mobil-1 0W-40 also had great phos and zinc percentages without going overboard....according to oil Bob. See mobil's chart below. BTW I just put in the mobil-1 0W-40 and it starts up like the 5W-30 and the engine sounds quieter and accelerates like a thin oil and doesn't feel held back, like the feeling of adding too thick of an oil. i feel it's the perfect happy medium.


http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
Great input, thank you. So what is operating temp for oil? Is there any time frame to wait to get to temp or do I need to just get an oil temp gauge? From the chart you referenced it looks like the Mobile 1 0w - 40 has 1100 ZDDP? On the stock bottom end do you not think the 40 is too thick?
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:26 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by EvolutinIX
So what is operating temp for oil? Is there any time frame to wait to get to temp or do I need to just get an oil temp gauge?
180F - 80C before you spin it.

An oil temp gauge is very useful. My oil usually reaches that temp in ~5 min of normal driving after the water has reached full temp.

FYI
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:30 PM
  #72  
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I have an MR which has a gauge. I usually wait til the needle hits about 70C which is about 158F....I'd say around 150F would be a good number give or take. I also slowly start getting into the boost a little bit at a time until the engine feels like it wants to go and I'm not forcing it...you know the feeling when your car has been up and running for a whlie and it just explodes through the gears effortlessly.....

I feel the 40 weight is just perfect while allowing the engine to still develop full hp and not causing any extra drag on the moving parts due to it's thickness. I was a mitsu mechanic back in 1983 when they built the First Mitsu in Wantaugh Long Island. I have been driving Mitsu's my whole life, built over 50 engines......I started with my 1976 Dodge Colt with a built 2.6 liter.......
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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Good stuff, thank you.

So with the Mobile 1 0w - 40 being an SM classified oil does that mean it is not a "true" synthetic?

Originally Posted by miragevo
I have an MR which has a gauge. I usually wait til the needle hits about 70C which is about 158F....I'd say around 150F would be a good number give or take. I also slowly start getting into the boost a little bit at a time until the engine feels like it wants to go and I'm not forcing it...you know the feeling when your car has been up and running for a whlie and it just explodes through the gears effortlessly.....

I feel the 40 weight is just perfect while allowing the engine to still develop full hp and not causing any extra drag on the moving parts due to it's thickness. I was a mitsu mechanic back in 1983 when they built the First Mitsu in Wantaugh Long Island. I have been driving Mitsu's my whole life, built over 50 engines......I started with my 1976 Dodge Colt with a built 2.6 liter.......
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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No, it means it meets the API SM specification for that particular grade. And FWIW, the API SM specification is different for 30, 40, and 50 weight oils where aspects like EP additives are concerned.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by EvolutinIX
Good stuff, thank you.

So with the Mobile 1 0w - 40 being an SM classified oil does that mean it is not a "true" synthetic?

No, SM refers to the quality level of the motor oil. In the case of SM, it’s currently the highest quality available for a standard passenger vehicle.....0W-40 FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!
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