-6an to -10an is 3x the area. If 6 isn't quite big enough it could be a big difference.

 

For FP turbos it will make a huge difference. You will burn oil until you correct the crank case pressure to < 0.5psi. Using -10 on both sides was needed to correct my crank case pressure. Having just a single -10 and a 3/8 was too little ventilation.

 

thanks for the info. oil was burning like a **** with my setup (bought the car built) until I got it to where it is now. things seem okay...

what is your exact setup?

 

My car was "only" running 24 psi and dual -6 vents weren't enough. Just because 25 psi isn't the 40-50psi the guys in the hunt for 4 digit power numbers doesn't mean its not a lot of boost. Its almost 2 whole extra atmospheres, its a lot.

One of the vents should be VTA or have a pcv valve and go to the intake manifold. And the other vent should go to the turbo inlet pipe.

You have them both going to one stm catch can. Does the catch can VTA and have a line going to the intake pipe? If so, its probably fine. You just need to make the lines/fitting bigger..

 

OK so I should upgrade from -6 vents to -8 or -10?

Right now I have the big square STM catch can with two VTA filters on the top. It has 3 ports.

One port goes to pcv side, one port goes to drivers side, and the third port is a vacuum line to a nipple on the 4" speed density intake.

Is this setup OK likely? The third port WAS to STM vented dipstick but catch can was filling up with straight oil, very quickly. I then capped the dipstick and third STM can port and then oil was leaving out of the exhaust I believe at a very rapid pace. I then added the vac line from 3rd port on catch can to the intake nipple and oil consumption is now very minimal so I thought I had it worked out.

 

that setup is good. If you think the turbo is still leaking, upgrade the size of one of the lines. The PCV would be easiest since stm sells a -10 fitting for there. then you just need to weld a -10 fitting on the catch can and you should be good.

 

Thanks for the support. The oil level has been pretty stable in my testing after these changes so I will continue to monitor and go from there.

 

so what is the basic consensus? can we update first page of thread?

1. drill out driver side vent hole to 5/8 and connect to intake.

2. rear vc port, remove pcv, cap intake manifold and run vta catch?

3. optional -> balance shaft peep hole?

i having massive pop outs on my 2.3 spring holding it down, but engine is consuming oil too i think.

 

my question is, why even have the check valve to intake manifold? and why not just block it off. and run vacuum to that catch on the left like the one on the right? wouldn't that be ideal?

 

also how do i get -10 for the front of valve cover i only see STM make the rear one.

 

The intake pipe can see some positive pressure when you lift from WOT. So you don't want both lines going to it.

The driver side has to he drilled and tapped for a 1/2" pipe fitting. Then you get s 1/2 pipe to 10an adapter fitting and go from there.

 

links? im not aure what im lookjg for exaxtly. there is still no "how to" or sticky. which i will be assembling after figuring it all out.

 

does anyone have pics of their mounting loctions? and what fittings you selected when you purchaded the catch can from radium.

single/dual? kit ?

 

I finally got my car together, I'll post some pics tonight. The radium can are all 10an fitting. So you just need male-male 10an unions.


This is what I did on the driver side of the valve cover where the existing vent is..

 

when you build boost, you would be forcing that air into the valve cover. you have to have a check valve if the PCV is running to the IM.