do you think the split second it's pressurized would cause that much of an issue? the trade off would be a ton of vacuum pulling from the valve cover.

 

How do I know if I need to do this?

I have a 2.3 stroker, FP black ball bearing, S2 cams etc.

My oil dip stick has never been pushed out.

I sent a email to FP when I bought my turbo (a year ago) about this, and they said it was one case over many more with no problems, so I didn't do anything.

 

if you are blowing smoke or popping your dipstick you will want to vent. i was going to do it just in case... but PD in my area would send me to the smog ref. i'm hoping i don't need it.

 

so this is what the vta kit comes with, ehat else do i need to order to oroperly do this?

or should i be getting the recirculating version? it doesnt say what that kit comes with thoug

Crankcase VTA Catch Can Kit:
-Billet oil catch can with integrated condenser and dipstick
-Laser cut powder coated LH mounting bracket
-Enough -10AN (5/8") black PCV hose for all applications
-Radium 14-0136 -10AN Hose End, 2pc 90deg for push-lok hose
-Radium 14-0213 -10AN Hose End, 90deg push-lok hose end
-Radium 20-0050 barb fitting with air filter breather
-10AN male aluminum weld-on bung
-Vacuum caps for 3/8" barb
-Stainless steel mounting hardware

 

Well, my setup has one line (10an) to the inlet pipe, and the other line is (6an) PCV to the intake manifold. And my red doesn't seem to smoke. I was considering just getting rid of the PCV and going VTA on that side because even with 6an on the pcv side the idle settings are all really low to get the car to idle well. I had 10an pcv before, and it wouldn't let the car idle below 1300...lol

 

i ordered the -10an STM Push, and two 1/2" NPT to -10 adapter for intake.

i contacted radium about getting a setup that will be compatible fittings see what they say back.

 

interesting info. i was gonna just do vent to a catch can and block off the IM port.

 

As of right now I have one -10 sealed can from valve cover to intake but using only 1/2" inlet and outlet barbs on the can itself.

The other line was from the valve cover to the intake manifold. That still pushed some smoke between shifts, so I blocked off the intake manifold side and vented only that can to atmosphere. This can is small as well and uses a -10 line, but with 1/2" barb inlet to a 3/8" outlet. I need to get a bigger vta can for the rear valve cover and add a dipstick vent. There is just so much pressure at 35-40psi its ridiculous. I still need a spring on my dipstick to keep from blowing out, but it is not as bad as it was before the catch cans.

Probably going to be calling stm by the end of the summer when I go to drive the car again for their wall mounted catch can and dipstick vent.

Yes I think it still has the potential to push oil out the turbo relief valves. Its not about time, but about pressure seen in the crank case.

 

I talked with MrFred a bit about my setup and this is what I've come up with as a start. Since the factory setup under boost only has the one vent (PCV close) which is tiny, I think opening up the 2nd port with a -10 will by itself be a massive improvement.

I don't really want to VTA though I might temporarily till I get another port on the intake pipe. This way will let me keep PCV function, and vent through a -10 port to either VTA or Intake. Crankcase vent side will just have the standard STM -6 port added and ran like factory to intake pipe.

All the parts are on order, just gotta play the waiting game.

 

Looks good, but the oem pcv tends to leak from my experience. Might want to consider a second check valve inline with the pcv to ensure no boost is escaping from the intake manifold. The pcv should stay in place to meter the air allowed into the intake manifold.

 

Good point, I might add another check valve inline with PCV as you said. Its a lot of valves but they're pretty unobtrusive in the flow direction from what I've heard.

 

US Plastics makes one that I use. TSCOMPUSA linked the part number in this thread somewhere if I recall. It has a .1 psi crack pressure and holds up to 100 or 150psi.

 

i searched for a while... couldn't find it. would be handy. if anyone happens to find it, please post here?

 

I found that the OEM Evo PCV is great, but the NAPA etc PCVs leak badly.

Dallas, presumably you mean that line with the Boomba check valve can VTA or go to the intake pipe, correct?

 

Yeah, exactly. I think either way will work and its the nice thing about the orientation.