Do the GSC S2's require spring upgrade????

 

Yes! I would get the Kiggly springs and while you do that add the Kiggly HLA.

Mikey

 

They arent "required" at stock rev limit, but I wouldn't want to drop a valve...

 

You are right, they are not required, but lets define required... If you have fresh new valve spring you would prob be okay but that is usually not the case. On an VIII they can valve float as early as 6500rpms that I have seen. The IXs tend to hold up to about 7000-7500rpms. Those cams don't really wake up till over 6k. Get valve springs and do it right in the first place. It will save you money in the long run. No one likes to break a motor because they tried to save $400.00. Then you are paying 5k+ to fix a 400 dollar problem that should have been done in the first place.

Mikey

 

Mikey,

I already ordered the kiggly beehives from the start. Do you think it's necessary to order the Kiggly HLA even tho im not pushing over 400whp, and probably wont ever go over 500whp in the future?

 

Also, gsc s2 cams do require springs i think... the kelfords 272s CAN be done w/o but its not recommended.

 

It will help keep more of the oil in the pan to make sure your bearings and turbo stay happy. 90% of people that stack bearings and/or have other bearing problems, or snap the rods are due to the lack of oil, high tq, or high cylinder pressure. In some cases all of the above. I like to eliminate as many potential problems as possible. For $150 I would do it, it's a great little mod for the price. If it was like $500 I would say not to worry about it but it is fairly cheap and just adds an extra level of protection in my eyes. It is an extremely easy install too.

It will also help increase oil pressure The stock block will run forever if you take care of it. I run my car 1/4-1/2 quart high too to help ensure that the oil pickup never runs dry during acceleration or hard cornering.

1) Don't run your oil more than 3k miles - even on synthetic
2) Keep cylinder Pressure low - control timing (really only for E85, Meth, Q16 etc..)
3) Keep tq below 400
4) Don't run your car low on oil. I check every time I fill my car up with gas
5) Don't load the car up in low rpms in a high gear like 5th or 6th
6) Don't over rev the car. 7500rpms is the max that I revved my stock motor to. High revs can/will pop a rod bolt = blown motor, and that is no good

These are just my recommendations - different people do things differently. My stock motor I ran on 1500cc of meth and 540whp on a Red for over 1.5 years. I also beat the living **** out of my car. The bearings also looked really good for 50k miles on the motor.

Greg recommends springs for the S2s but there are some people that don't run them, and will usually have problems at some point. This brings us back to the "I like to eliminate as many potential problems as possible" Having a valve fall into a piston will cost you an engine build. Not worth taking a chance when springs are only $400. That is just my point of view on things.

To each his own...

Mikey

 

Not required but strongly recommended. GSC's words.

 

Is the GSC S2 is something I can use for the stock turbo. Or would the GSC S1 suit me more?

 

Holy thread revival batman!

^I was also wondering this. I read that s1's were more suited to a standard turbo but I was told to go for s2's by someone who clearly knows what they're talking about, and because I'm getting forged rods the tuner will be running 1.9 bar boost, so I guess that would make the 274 cams better suited?