How to recognize bad Idle Control Valve???
That looks like what happens to mine when I unplug the battery and plug it back and drive with the AC on. It takes time to learn. It might not be the same issue with yours though.
I have a pic of my bad one here :
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ge-my-isc.html
Note: when you reset the IAC, the car will need an idle learn and driven a lot to re-learn how much to progress when coming to a stop. Most of the time it will stall for the first 3 stops,LOL.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ge-my-isc.html
Note: when you reset the IAC, the car will need an idle learn and driven a lot to re-learn how much to progress when coming to a stop. Most of the time it will stall for the first 3 stops,LOL.
This is from my DSM. Maybe the operation of the ICV is the same on an Evo, maybe different.
On a DSM, the ECU didn't keep track of where the plunger in the ICV was located. The ECU only sent raise and lower signals until the targeted rpm was achieved. When the engine was shut down the ECU didn't know where the ICV plunger was located. So, at start the ECU would command the ICV all the way to the end of travel and then run it back a certain number of steps.
On a DSM, the ECU didn't keep track of where the plunger in the ICV was located. The ECU only sent raise and lower signals until the targeted rpm was achieved. When the engine was shut down the ECU didn't know where the ICV plunger was located. So, at start the ECU would command the ICV all the way to the end of travel and then run it back a certain number of steps.
Its not a question of how far - that is decided by the ECU and will vary car to car. The ICV should operate quickly and not with a loud sound at start. This all has to happen while you are turning the key.


