SKproductionZ

So i bought a type-s (one of my all time fav bovs) and ordered a flange last week
finally got it in and installed it today
I read up about a one spring mod and followed the directions
I first did the larger spring but it sounded exactly like the stock bov
so i went with a smaller spring and it sounded the way i wanted too...
only problem is, its only under low boost
when i boost it
it jumps to 22lbs then drops down to 15lbs and flutters rather then whistle
i tryed to find articles using the search button but couldnt really find a reason why.
There isnt any leaks from what I know, its at about 7-8 twists with the smaller spring and 3-4 twists with the larger spring.
car had stalling issues with the larger spring but it didnt with the smaller spring

any help would be appreciated... i know i can sell it but if i can make it work id love it
thanks for the help in advance

bluebanana23

iTrader: (26)

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_articles...h_article_id=7 Did you base your directions off of this? There are so many better performing valves than the outdated type-s.

SKproductionZ

yeah i did
and i know there are, i just always wanted a "type-s" bov lol
luckily i can get the amount i paid for by selling it but yeh
not sure what else to do

SKproductionZ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4avDgJEA8U

my inspiration
love the way it sounds

AWDPowah

iTrader: (21)

I did the single spring mod with my first Type-s exactly how they show on EvoMoto. It was plenty loud. My bet is that the diaphragm is cracked.

SKproductionZ

i checked the diaphram and it looks like theres no damage or cracks at all? are you running a larger spring or smaller?

AWDPowah

iTrader: (21)

Large only. Are you recirculating? I noticed that if I adjusted that bov to not flutter it would be lose enough to open and whistle a bit while cruising. When I finally tested the bov, I found that it was leaking at about 15psi. I know you want the sound, but if you want a bov that will do the job without sacrificing driveability, go with a stock dsm or Evo IX bov and crush it.

MattC28

iTrader: (5)

It is tought to get that bov to work correctly... good luck, i could never get it to work the way i wanted to. went back to the metal mr valve.

Drill_Sergeant

iTrader: (21)

in my experience with the greddy type s,

i recently have been running it with only the larger spring and tightening it almost to the max allowing for only a few MM of travel.

this gave me GREAT response and that whistling sound you're probably looking for. it also held boost much better than my WORKS modified metal evo BOV.

SKproductionZ

I will try that tomorrow
thanks!

SKproductionZ

ah ok idk what happened
i put the stock bov back on yesterday thinking the car would go back to normal
but now its doing the same thing with the stock bov. when in throttle it will spike to 20 or so psi and steady off around 15-16
my car usually pushes around 17-18 psi
also i hear a small squeek from the motor when i turn off the car almost like leak
do u think one of the couplings got loose and is causing this issue?
ima probably reinstall the stock bov and hope it goes well

SKproductionZ

not sure if this helps explain
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0OCgrei_A0

this is with the stock bov back on... its leveling off at 15lbs rather then the normal 17.
im taking it to the shop monday

Drill_Sergeant

iTrader: (21)

boost leak test

boostnMA

iTrader: (6)

I've had the type s for a year now and it never sounded off correctly, it sounded like the stock at anything over 5psi, and it would sometimes compressor surge. I t'd off the boost controller line (turbo to boost controller) and hooked up a 1/8 in line from the t to the bottom port on the type s, and it sounded off perfectly even at high boost (top set screw is set to 6 threads). Also both springs are inside.

It was then leaking under boost, wouldn't hold over 15 and would taper down to 12. During a boost leak test it would open as well, so I took it apart (super easy just make sure you hold down the purple cap when removing the allen head bolts). I noticed that the diaphragm (black rubber piece) was ripped so I took some black rtv and coated the inside of the rip and the outside (the metal circle piece inside the diaphragm comes out). I let it dry for 24 hours (full cure time) then re-assembled it. I also cleaned/polished the inside of the bov and put a thin coat of oil on the shaft. Now it holds boost and sounds off perfectly!

To summarize:
1. T off the turbo to boost controller line and connect the lower port of the type s to the T.

2. Open the BOV and see if the diaphragm is ripped,
- you can try and repair it with
RTV http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...usted-diafragm

-or buy a new diaphragm for $80. http://www.shopgreddy.com/turbocharg...placement.html

3. Clean the inside of the bov

4. Reassemble the bov (keep both springs)

5. Try setting the adjustment screw to 6 threads sticking out from the top of the nut.