APEXR

iTrader: (5)

So I was looking into the S1 cams and noticed the instructions say "Synthetic oils must not be used when breaking in camshafts. Most synthetic oils are not suggested for use with ductile induction hardened billets and will lead to failure of lobes." I've always run synthetics in all my cars and was wondering if anyone had any input on the matter? Problems you've ran into or nothing to worry about? Thanks in advance for any feedback.

kiley_sean

iTrader: (18)

Nothing to worry about. I've got about 50K miles between GSC 264s and S1s...never used dino oil to "break-in" the cams. Took the 264s out last spring and the lobes looked fantastic for being 40K miles old.

APEXR

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the reply. Anyone else out there agree or disagree? Not looking to start a fight, just wanting other peoples opinions.

discopotato03

You should ask them if what they mean is use an oil with higher concentrations of Zinc and Phos or ZDDP .

I wouldn't have though a roller follower valve train would be a big issue but since they've mentioned it you should talk to them .

A .

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

After my cam install the car went straight to the dyno using regular 10w30 Amsoil. Everything will be fine.

blknblubkrdude

iTrader: (16)

You will probably get away without using a different oil to break them in.

I thought the extra $10 in oil was worth the peace of mind.

GSC doesn't elaborate on a break in procedure just to waste your time.

evoboi005

iTrader: (9)

just dont use Mobil 1 and you will be fine ... thats exactly what greg from gsc told me

zx40

iTrader: (8)

Over 25k with mobil 1 on my GSC S1's, and about 12k on my FP Red with zero problems. Maybe I'm just lucky?

Broham

iTrader: (10)

hey zx, don't do it man. THere is a pdf document from fp explaining the problems of mobil 1 with statistical data. bradd penn, amsoil are better alternatives for protecting your engine and turbo

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

Again and again and again FP document relates to FP Red and Black turbos only due to the bearing material used.

Mobil 1 in any of their formulations will not harm your engine EVER

zx40

iTrader: (8)

Yah, I've read the stats, and may switch over to Amsoil or something, but really just because of the Red. I had no concerns for the motor, and a mild cam like an S1 with Mobile1. If Brad Penn, or Amsoil is conveniently available for you, its probably a safe bet. I just want people to know that putting Mobile1 in your car wont instantly blow everything up.

snowborder714

iTrader: (2)

This is the first I've heard of someone suggesting to use non-synthetic.

Has anyone contacted them to see what the reason behind the recommendation is?

blknblubkrdude

iTrader: (16)

The only benefit behind using non-synthetic racing oil is the price. It lacks all the detergents necessary to keep your internals clean and conditioned.

If you DD your car, or dont change your oil every 800 miles or so, I would highly suggest sticking with a Synthetic race oil. Don't cheap out.

nodnarb416

iTrader: (3)

+1 I would never use anything but synthetic in an evo -_-

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

On older engines it was said to use a zinc additive to your oil to help break in cams. Old air cooled porsche motors, boat engines, are some we have done at work that was recommended to use this. The zinc additive is used,imo, because it is cheaper than using a high zinc synthetic oil. one little can of the additive vs. 10qts (air cooled 911) of a high zinc synthetic oil is a big difference in price. All these motors had flat tappet cams, with roller rockers its probably not as critical but if you want to be safe just break your cams in with a high zddp oil. Amsoil 10w30 dominator and redline 5w30 are two that come to mind. The amsoil RD30 has less detergents so 'might' be better for the break in.