Ive put about 5k on my Comp stage 3 clutch/flywheel combination. I also installed the STM stop just in case at the same time.

I noticed recently the clutch has been engaging a little higher over time. After this weekend, which the car was launched 17 times, when it sat for a while the clutch barely engaged.

I remembered the stop was adjusted close to the fork and as the clutch wore it limited it from fully disengaging. Adjusted it back again and all is good again. Actually, now with it engaging back in the middle area I really need to swap the upper and lower switches so my NLTS doesn't sit on the lower rev while I'm engaging the clutch.

BTW, this was 2 days of autocrossing and the launches were mild but definitely more aggressive than normal driving.

 

Thanks for the tip. Mine is adjusting pretty high now, so I'll be sure to check it.

 

Makes sense since the disc gradually gets thinner, mine too about 2 turns back... but I kinda over did it with the clutch this weekend. Time for a clutch line to prevent so much slip I guess

 

[quote=Dallas J;9141876]Ive put about 5k on my Comp stage 3 clutch/flywheel combination. I also installed the STM stop just in case at the same time.

I noticed recently the clutch has been engaging a little higher over time. After this weekend, which the car was launched 17 times, when it sat for a while the clutch barely engaged.

I remembered the stop was adjusted close to the fork and as the clutch wore it limited it from fully disengaging. Adjusted it back again and all is good again. Actually, now with it engaging back in the middle area quote]

I'm a newb with pull style clutches in cars but not with tractor trailers, how can the fork stop affect the engaging point and the point it disengages?? The more the clutch "disengages" (pedal going down) the fork is getting fartheerr away from the stop so I don't see how what you said makes sense

 

When you push on the clutch the fork pushes away from the stop, and when you release it moves back towards it. The stop prevents it from moving too far so you dont compress the wavy washers and risk the TOB popping off. As the clutch wears the disc gets thinner and the forks natural stop point (determined by how much the pressure plate moves to compress the clutch disc) moves back.

In my case, the clutch stop was right there and eventually limited the travel enough to barely engage the clutch.