Sup man, thanks for info. I was wondering, how did you manage to take off the 2 allen bolts with out damaging them? Mine are a "B" to get off.

 

well, soak it in WD40 for an hour and use a breaker bar with allen socket or something similar. mine came off relatively easy.

 

K, thanks. I'm going to overhaul it and get back to everybody as soon as I'm done. Let's fix this Acd Pump issue for good!

 

Best quote in this thread.

We need pics if you don't mind, so others can easily do the same with instruction

 

So I confirmed that my system is showing code #82, AWESOME! I'm going to pick up some ATF III fluid this weekend and try out a rebuild.

Just curious but does anyone know how to hook up a pressure gauge to the ACD pump? I know a lot rally prepped evo's have this but haven't found much on it.

EDIT: Alright just throwing this out there, the ACD System is supposed to operate between 1.0-1.6MPa (145 - 232PSI) pretty intense stuff. The part that does the testing is from Mitsubishi and you will need MD998330 (a remote pressure gauge) and MB991705 (adapter that threads into the existing pressure sensor location and allows the remote pressure gauge to connect and read the pressure). All this was taken from the factory service manual for the 2006 Evo IX, I would assume that the USDM 2005 Evo VIII will be the same.

It is looking extremely slim that there will be a gauge that can measure such high pressure with accuracy as well. Hopefully Evoscan 2.9 will allow the option to monitor the system and duplicate the command functions of the MUTIII Scan Tool that the dealers have. Aslo just to reconfirm, I have an official illustration from the dealership parts department and the pump is a single unit with a single part number (34303 or 3520A041) and is about $2100 without cost of installation.

 

A more in depth bleeding procedure provided by MR Turco found here but here's a copy of the post below. I found that post in this thread.

"Using the gas pedal is the incorrect procedure. The correct procedure for bleeding the ACD is somewhat more in depth. Here is what i have been given by an experienced mitsu tech:


Select the "Air Bleed ACD" actuator
crack the bleeder, have the steering wheel at 0 degrees with the ebrake off, then turn the steering wheel past 15 degrees or so and the pump will run for a few seconds, then turn the steering wheel 15 degrees the other way and repeat. When no more air is present, close the bleeder and fill the reservoir higher than the MAX line.

Select the "Oil Level" Actuator.
The oil level should suck down, afterwards fill the reservoir to the MAX level.


Select the "Motor Drive" Actuator
This should lower the oil level to just about the MIN line.
Procedure is complete. (Do NOT refill the reservoir back up to the MAX line.)


The only way I have done this correctly is with the MUTT-III, however while I was playing around with evoscan once, I did see the actuator tests listed, I have not tried using them yet though."

 

no need for high accuracy actually, it is used only to check for sensor failure. the gauge should be fitted instead of clutch pack line, at least that's what factory manual suggests. 300 psi mechanical gauges are running for 20-30 bucks shipped, lots of them, just google. throw in a custom fitting and you're done. anyhow, i assumed that the sensor is good and the pump is failing and it seems i was correct in this assumption.

btw, having tried both i can say that bleeding with mut iii and throttle does not seem to be much different. i haven't tried Steffen's "pump screaming" method, but i think it should be good enough as well.

 

True, I wasn't sure if the cheaper ones on Google would work but i guess they will. Also the MUT III will definitely help if you're a "one man band" I better bribe a friend or something lol.

 

So I tested my pump and it doesn't even make a sound. I tried the ING ON then Full Throttle method. Any ideas?

 

Put a test light on the plug and see if you are getting juice to the pump. If you insulation around the probe you can jam it through the air duct to pick it up. So you dont need to take it all apart.

 

do you push a throttle before turning ignition and hold it for 10 seconds after? if so, then probably:

- you don't hear it (its working fairly quiet)
- you have a wiring issue
- your acd pump has stuck up real bad

i'd check pump relay and all connectors first, in accordance to factory manual.

 

Yes, I will go over everything again. When I took my car to Mitsubishi the tech and I could not hear anything. We even tried a direct power source to the pump and nothing happened. We did it like that because the MUT III scan tool kept presenting a high connectivity error and refused to allow access to the acd/ayc functions only MFI and abs.

 

I'm having the ACD issue as well right now. I'm wondering if anyone can give me some guidance on my situation. Basically I get all 3 lights if I just start the car and drive through the neighborhood <30mph. It only appears to happen on hot days, and it will either happen within 1-2 minutes of driving, or not at all. It also only appears to happen if the car has been sitting for at least an hour or two. If the lights come on, and I turn the car off for a few seconds, I can turn it back on and not have the lights anymore, until the car sits for a while again. Any ideas would be helpful.

 

That pretty much describes the problem most of us are having. Not to speak for all but generally we all needed our pumps repaired or replaced with the exact same issue.

 

In the process of cleaning out my acd pump. Looks really bad. I'm taking pics for everyone and have them up very soon..