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Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory

 
Old Jun 23, 2011, 01:15 PM
  #16  
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What I find funny, is that people have been doing this since 2003. How did the knowledge get lost until recently?

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Old Jun 23, 2011, 01:23 PM
  #17  
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You can always ping me if you have questions from the install since I've already done it. Hardest part of the disassembly is removing the diff carrier from the diff case. The manual tells you to use two hammer ends (the wood part). There's no way you can lever the diff out at the angle you stick the hammer in. I used the rubber coated ends of 2 large pliers, poked into the diff carrier's openings to crank it out. You gotta use quite a bit of muscle power for that step too, unless you got a long lever.

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Old Jun 23, 2011, 07:11 PM
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Wow, sub'd for updates. Nice write-up. Do our diffs have "shims"?
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 07:15 PM
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They have spacers (#9). They make the whole diff fit in the case very tight.

Attached Thumbnails Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory-untitled-1.jpg  
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 07:18 PM
  #20  
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oh god yes! someone please do a step by step with torque specs and everything. maybe a paypal address for donations to sweeten the deal.
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Thoe99 View Post
They have spacers (#9). They make the whole diff fit in the case very tight.

It's actually tricky to put the whole diff back in the case. You need to put the diff+side bearing outer races+spacers all in at once and then press it down evenly. If you push down on the diff, the spacer may not go down at the same time, so you gotta take it back out and do it again (gotta use levers again depending on how far you got the diff in). You can only push it down with your body so far, it's a VERY tight fit. My tactic was to get a block of wood and tap the spacers down, one side at a time, little by little, until the entire diff re-installed back in. Hammering a piece of wood gives you a strong impact in a tight area but will not damage any metal. While you hammer it down, make sure the final drive gear meshes with the drive pinion gear (pic below; #22 in diagram above).





I took a bunch of pics and can do a 'how-to' eventually. For now, I'll just answer specific install questions.
Attached Thumbnails Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory-img_8161b.jpg   Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory-img_8157b.jpg  

Last edited by Thoe99; Jun 23, 2011 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 07:47 PM
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In the end, I made sure this thing had a good gasket too

Attached Thumbnails Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory-img_8165.jpg  
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 07:52 PM
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Wow nice writeup. Great job Thoe99. Definitely keep us updated
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 07:57 PM
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this is also a good time to replace all the oil seals and the rear diff carrier bushings. ect.. ect.. for good measures.
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 08:17 PM
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Very intreresting...

Sounds like a case spreader might make things abit easier.
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 08:47 PM
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gear head View Post
Very intreresting...

Sounds like a case spreader might make things abit easier.
I thought about that, but then I also thought "does cast iron bend? or does it rebound back into shape?". I don't know so I didn't chance spreading it. Plus, you don't have the space to spread it while putting the diff in . It must have some tight tolerances for a reason.
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 09:08 PM
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Sometimes a spreader is a hassle, I've had to use one several times to do ring & pinions. They won't hurt anything since you are only spreading a few thousanths to relieve pressure, when removed everything just goes back to where it was.

Just a thought, I guess I'll find out when I pull mine apart

Nice find
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:02 PM
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"Unbolted the final gear and opened the carrier. Sure enough the plates were assembled wrong from factory. You can see that the factory stacked the plates as follows, top to bottom: plate, plate, disc, disc, plate---plate, disc, disc, plate, plate"

The drawing shows four plates and two discs on each side. If there was a plate between the discs in your list it would be the same as the factory drawing. So, are you missing a plate?

EDIT.....

Nevermind: in the photograph I see the correct number of plates and discs.

Last edited by barneyb; Jun 23, 2011 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by EVO8emUp View Post
When the plates are installed correctly, you will definitely have to change the LSD fluid at 15k or less, depending on how you drive your car, no different than a upgraded/modified diff. I'm guessing they didn't set it up this way because of service intervals, and noise. Which it isn't really noisy, BTW.
I truly think they set it up this way to reduce customer complaints.

I am glad to see that this info has finally been posted on the forums. The LSD itself was not set up incorrectly from the factory, it was done this way on purpose. As EVO8emUp said above the clutches were arranged this way to eliminate any clutch chatter (noise) from the LSD. It would cost Mitsubishi a fortune in warranty repairs for customers who complain about differential noise. Also, this is not done only by Mitsubishi, other OEMs do the same thing to reduce the noise from clutch type LSD units. This is a big reason a lot of OEMs have gone to Torsen style LSD units in IRS applications, which are nearly silent.

The 8 plate LSD mod, as some people call it, can easily be done by someone who has mechanical skill following the service manual in their garage at home. Itís great info for people who want a better locking LSD without having to spend a bunch of $$. One thing that is important to note that I am not sure if the service manual covers clearly; The OEM LSD unit is a 1 way unit. It is important that the pressure rings or cams are installed exactly as they came out of the LSD. If you get them reversed your LSD will lock on deceleration and not on acceleration, as it should.
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