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Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory

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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 05:14 PM
  #61  
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I have know about this but i admit, i have not grown the ***** to this and shops that i have asked have turned me down one after another. TRE has had some great reviews but Weir Performance agrees to do it your self for much cheaper and save days on sending the rear diff out in a box. Weir gives the owner 12 new Plates with instructions on the lsd for $180. I am in SoCal and they are above San Fransisco, so thats a drive for me (gas money too). Weir believes in saving money and being sure that you are not getting ripped off.

here is a link

http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html

maybe we can get together and fix this issue. Make everyone feel like its as easy as a bolt on.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 10:34 AM
  #62  
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are there any special tools needed to do this?
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #63  
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I think i will be doing this in the next few weeks as well! Another autox event is coming up and would like to have it and a few other things done before then!
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Malocas
I have know about this but i admit, i have not grown the ***** to this and shops that i have asked have turned me down one after another.
I'll see if the folks at STM can do this, as I'm interested in the service, as well.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by andrewzaragoza
are there any special tools needed to do this?
Special tools would help a lot, but there are workarounds with common tools if you are creative. I didn't have any special tools from the manual. It helps to have these common shop tools:

-5" vice
-rubber-coated pliers (or tire irons, or prybars)
-4 hydraulic jacks (2 to hold the rear of the car up, one to hold the driveshaft, one to lower/raise the diff--it's about 50lbs; these also come in handy when lining bolt holes back up)
-long wrenches with little to no angle (to reach the bolts at diff to mustache bar)
-prybars (removing axle cups and lining bolt holes back up when you put things together)
-pb blaster (if your bolts are stubbornly stuck)
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 12:34 PM
  #66  
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This is pretty damn awesome! Excellent write-up. Learn something new everyday. hahha
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 12:44 PM
  #67  
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very interesting thread, I have a JDM 9 RS, anyone know is my diff is still assembled wrong from the factory?? please don't tell me I have to take it apart to find out
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Evoardo IX
very interesting thread, I have a JDM 9 RS, anyone know is my diff is still assembled wrong from the factory?? please don't tell me I have to take it apart to find out
Only the USDM Evo VIIIs and IXs have their plates shuffled around to reduce oversteer while accelerating.

I'm about 99.9% sure you're car doesn't suffer from this problem.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 12:56 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Evoardo IX
very interesting thread, I have a JDM 9 RS, anyone know is my diff is still assembled wrong from the factory?? please don't tell me I have to take it apart to find out
JDM Evos come with a different rear differential. The one on the USDM evo 8/9s is something based off of an evo3 mechanical - relatively positive the JDM RS rear diff is a 1.5 way too, compared 1 way in stock usdm 8/9
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
JDM Evos come with a different rear differential. The one on the USDM evo 8/9s is something based off of an evo3 mechanical - relatively positive the JDM RS rear diff is a 1.5 way too, compared 1 way in stock usdm 8/9
Any way to know for sure? i.e. part number or something? I can go look at my diff and post what number it has if it helps...
Kind of off topic here, but not really if my car has a 1.5, with the plates set up correctly, how come I have lots of under steer? and finally, would I benefit from the ACD reflashes at all? ( heard somewhere that the JDM ACD has different maps than US from factory)
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Evoardo IX
Any way to know for sure? i.e. part number or something? I can go look at my diff and post what number it has if it helps...
Kind of off topic here, but not really if my car has a 1.5, with the plates set up correctly, how come I have lots of under steer? and finally, would I benefit from the ACD reflashes at all? ( heard somewhere that the JDM ACD has different maps than US from factory)
no idea - not to get further off topic but its a lot of factors that contribute to understeer - mostly set up, driver input, etc. just pushing throttle doesnt mean you're going to get oversteer w 1.5 way. you can contact gruppe-s about the acd reflash.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 01:09 PM
  #72  
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very interesting and looks like huge difference
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 10:48 AM
  #73  
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ttt
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 03:17 PM
  #74  
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Can anyone tell me what the number means on the diff cover?
EVO9 - yep, got that
3.308K ?
And under that.. just a bunch of alphanumerics. Build date? Serial number? Part number?




Thanks,

'chono'
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by chono
Can anyone tell me what the number means on the diff cover?
EVO9 - yep, got that
3.308K ?
And under that.. just a bunch of alphanumerics. Build date? Serial number? Part number?




Thanks,

'chono'

3.308 is the ratio.
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