Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory
I have know about this but i admit, i have not grown the ***** to this and shops that i have asked have turned me down one after another. TRE has had some great reviews but Weir Performance agrees to do it your self for much cheaper and save days on sending the rear diff out in a box. Weir gives the owner 12 new Plates with instructions on the lsd for $180. I am in SoCal and they are above San Fransisco, so thats a drive for me (gas money too). Weir believes in saving money and being sure that you are not getting ripped off.
here is a link
http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html
maybe we can get together and fix this issue. Make everyone feel like its as easy as a bolt on.
here is a link
http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html
maybe we can get together and fix this issue. Make everyone feel like its as easy as a bolt on.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,202
Likes: 20
From: Orlando, FL
Special tools would help a lot, but there are workarounds with common tools if you are creative. I didn't have any special tools from the manual. It helps to have these common shop tools:
-5" vice
-rubber-coated pliers (or tire irons, or prybars)
-4 hydraulic jacks (2 to hold the rear of the car up, one to hold the driveshaft, one to lower/raise the diff--it's about 50lbs; these also come in handy when lining bolt holes back up)
-long wrenches with little to no angle (to reach the bolts at diff to mustache bar)
-prybars (removing axle cups and lining bolt holes back up when you put things together)
-pb blaster (if your bolts are stubbornly stuck)
-5" vice
-rubber-coated pliers (or tire irons, or prybars)
-4 hydraulic jacks (2 to hold the rear of the car up, one to hold the driveshaft, one to lower/raise the diff--it's about 50lbs; these also come in handy when lining bolt holes back up)
-long wrenches with little to no angle (to reach the bolts at diff to mustache bar)
-prybars (removing axle cups and lining bolt holes back up when you put things together)
-pb blaster (if your bolts are stubbornly stuck)
I'm about 99.9% sure you're car doesn't suffer from this problem.
JDM Evos come with a different rear differential. The one on the USDM evo 8/9s is something based off of an evo3 mechanical - relatively positive the JDM RS rear diff is a 1.5 way too, compared 1 way in stock usdm 8/9
Kind of off topic here, but not really
if my car has a 1.5, with the plates set up correctly, how come I have lots of under steer? and finally, would I benefit from the ACD reflashes at all? ( heard somewhere that the JDM ACD has different maps than US from factory)
Any way to know for sure? i.e. part number or something? I can go look at my diff and post what number it has if it helps...
Kind of off topic here, but not really
if my car has a 1.5, with the plates set up correctly, how come I have lots of under steer? and finally, would I benefit from the ACD reflashes at all? ( heard somewhere that the JDM ACD has different maps than US from factory)
Kind of off topic here, but not really
if my car has a 1.5, with the plates set up correctly, how come I have lots of under steer? and finally, would I benefit from the ACD reflashes at all? ( heard somewhere that the JDM ACD has different maps than US from factory)
Can anyone tell me what the number means on the diff cover?
EVO9 - yep, got that
3.308K ?
And under that.. just a bunch of alphanumerics. Build date? Serial number? Part number?
Thanks,
'chono'
EVO9 - yep, got that
3.308K ?
And under that.. just a bunch of alphanumerics. Build date? Serial number? Part number?
Thanks,
'chono'











