Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory
One thing that is important to note that I am not sure if the service manual covers clearly; The OEM LSD unit is a 1 way unit. It is important that the pressure rings or cams are installed exactly as they came out of the LSD. If you get them reversed your LSD will lock on deceleration and not on acceleration, as it should.
Could you or someone else elaborate on this? I took my diff out and rerranged the plates yesterday, but it hasn't made much difference in the handling. It made the car more neutral, but it still won't kick the tail out like in the OP's videos. So I'm wondering if maybe I swapped those things around?
EDIT: After some more testing the diff is definitely working properly. Just not oversteering quite as much as I would like it to. This mod is still worthwhile if you're running STU or a similar class where you can't go to a 12-plate, but if you can go to a 12-plate from Weir/Shep/TRE...I'd do it. A friend of mine has a VIII with the Shep 12-plate and it's impressive.
Last edited by GoTopless; Jul 28, 2011 at 08:51 AM.
As mentionned in the thread, it's believed it was either to avoid having too much throttle oversteer that could catch inattentive drivers by surprise, and/or to not have owners complaining of noise coming from the diff when it's in fact working perfectly fine.
So.. "incorrect" is in the eye of the beholder..
Different than the shop manual - yes.
More quiet than how it's done in the shop manual - yes.
As someone who competes with a pretty strict ruleset, a TSB is not something that I'd push for - since it's more likely that said TSB would correct the shop manual to match the existing build.
-'chono'

When I was running my original diff without the plate swap, it was aggressive too with the same fluids. Then I switched to stock struts and lowering springs and the aggressiveness went away... Time to get coil overs again.
I just did this upgrade (OEM Incorrect to Weir 12-plate) last week and spent the weekend with NASA at Road Atlanta. I'll put a more detailed write up in the Motorsports section, but after all the other changes (coilovers, RSB, Whiteline RCK, Bump Steer, Bushings, agressive alignment) this was the final piece that brought the car into a mostly neutral state.
And it is really easy to do, hardest part is removing/re-installing the diff in the car.
And it is really easy to do, hardest part is removing/re-installing the diff in the car.
Here's a write up and video of the Weir unit in action:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...a-nasa-se.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...a-nasa-se.html
good job on the write up.
i pulled my diff and did this and went with redline fluid in there. seems like its working perfectly. i also got alil chatter in the rear only at like 5mph after that nothing
i pulled my diff and did this and went with redline fluid in there. seems like its working perfectly. i also got alil chatter in the rear only at like 5mph after that nothing







