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Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory

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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 04:07 PM
  #136  
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Did lash need to be adjusted after this mod?
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 04:10 PM
  #137  
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i didnt adjust anything other then rearrange the plates, maybe i missed a step or something but everything seems fine in my rear end
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 07:00 AM
  #138  
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This problem is also for the rear diffs with the ACD?I have an european evo 9
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 07:34 AM
  #139  
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No, this problem is only for Evos made for the US. If you have YAW and your Evo is not made for the US market, then you should be good.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 09:41 AM
  #140  
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Can you do this re-arrangement and still add the extra plates (ala TRE)? How would this affect performance? More oversteer?
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
Can you do this re-arrangement and still add the extra plates (ala TRE)? How would this affect performance? More oversteer?

I'm pretty sure you could just purchase the 12 plate upgrade from Weir performance and install it...

I can't speak for DIY (Shep did mine) but the diff now acts as a 1.5 way would, more oversteer...less understeer. However, it is still very much an AWD vehicle so the oversteer isn't unmanageable.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #142  
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
i did buy the Weir plates and I will be installing (I just used TRE as an example). I just wasn't sure if I should still re-arrange the plates as well as add the Weir solution (or if adding the Weir solution will have me re-arrange the plates as part of the installation instructions).
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 03:55 PM
  #143  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
i did buy the Weir plates and I will be installing (I just used TRE as an example). I just wasn't sure if I should still re-arrange the plates as well as add the Weir solution (or if adding the Weir solution will have me re-arrange the plates as part of the installation instructions).
You don't add the Weir plates with the OEM plates. Weir is a stand alone 12 plate kit that replaces your OEM plates. You can just sell off the OEM plates to those that have broken plates if you want.
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 05:24 PM
  #144  
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This whole process went pretty smoothly. One warning to anyone out there planning to complete this, be extra careful when removing the four screws that hold differential case A and B together. They strip pretty easily. Haven't heard of anyone having issues but lets just say I'm lucky home depot had m5x0.8 flat topped screws. I'd recommend using an impact driver to remove those screws without stripping them.

Last edited by krazykorean84; Sep 15, 2011 at 05:28 PM.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 11:31 AM
  #145  
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Just an update after four autox events the diff started making the clicking noise after my last event but the good news is the car oversteers but nothing like the 12 plate video I have seen. It is funny that it took four events to start making noise on me. It is only apparent on dead stops and very low speed turns. It isn't so much a click as others described but a minor clunk that sometimes happens multiple times while taking off from a dead stop and turning at the same time. I can definitely see why people were complaining to mitsubishi because if I didn't know this was the result of a functioning LSD I would most likely be freaking out by now. I am going to add a bottle of friction modifier and see if that quiets the diff down. I am really debating redoing it with the 12 plates now that I have gotten used to it.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #146  
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wow!

Originally Posted by Thoe99
took me 5 days with 2 people (1-3hrs a day after work). This time includes the plate swapping.
it's like a 2 hour job if you just drop the right axle and pull it out that way.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 05:33 AM
  #147  
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I've had the Weir upgrade in place for a while now and done another track event at Nashville Superspeedway. Unlike Road Atlanta, there are some very tight-flat turns that have always brought out the worst in terms of Evo Understeer.

Now, those turns are throttle oversteer on demand. Controlled use of the throttle will rotate the car nicely through them. A heavy foot will send the rear stepping out, still driveable, but tough on tires.

As far as noise, well, my car has reached the stage of near dedicated track machine. With all the Whiteline bushings, Coilovers, rear interior stripped, this diff is incredibly loud poking around the paddock. I am also running Redline 75-90 NS (No Slip) to get maximum lockup. I'm sure regular fluid and/or adding the slip modifier would quiet it down some.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:06 AM
  #148  
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I found that even with stock plates in the "right order" that the modifier wears or gets used up and has to be supplemented with a little more. Don't know that adding the GM LSD additive lessens the grip but it sure makes the car more drivable on the street.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:55 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by cfdfireman1
it's like a 2 hour job if you just drop the right axle and pull it out that way.
I did do it that way. I'm pretty certain most people will not be able to do this job in 2hrs.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 07:30 AM
  #150  
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proper tools and a crack assistant helps! :-)
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