Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory
#181
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
You shouldn't be having any noises in straight line driving. The noises are caused by the friction plates slipping against each other due to differential wheel speed when the diff is working as it should. And you should only have differential wheel speed in a turn.
With no rear interior, polyU bushings, etc,etc and NS fluid mine is crazy loud poking around the paddock when I turn, but makes no noise in a straight line.
Post up a vid if you can. The noise in slow turns is a popping almost percussive deal.
With no rear interior, polyU bushings, etc,etc and NS fluid mine is crazy loud poking around the paddock when I turn, but makes no noise in a straight line.
Post up a vid if you can. The noise in slow turns is a popping almost percussive deal.
#182
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
Actually, this is straight from TRE's FAQ on rear diff oil reccomendations on their webpage. He actually reccomends the Redline gear oil (NS is what I run) or even the heavy shockproof for drag racers.
96-07 EVO: Mitsubishi recommends that the rear axle that is found in the EVOLUTION be filled with their factory oil, Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil part# 3775610 or a high quality GL-5 or higher 90w Hypoid LSD gear oil. These oils contain a friction modifier that will reduce noise associated with friction disc type limited slips.
REDLINE 80W-140 GL-5 GEAR OIL We highly recommend using Redline 80W140 GL-5 Gear Oil. Their part number is # 58104. For road racing applications, use Redline 80w-140.
* If you are wanting to increase the lock-up of the limited slip differential you will want to use Redline 80w-140 NS. This oil will increase lock-up but it does not contain the friction modifiers that reduce noise.
REDLINE SHOCKPROOF HEAVY If the vehicle is going to be drag raced Redline Shockproof Heavy is an excellent oil for the rear axle but outside temps should be 45*F or warmer because the oil is not thin enough for cold weather use.
96-07 EVO: Mitsubishi recommends that the rear axle that is found in the EVOLUTION be filled with their factory oil, Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil part# 3775610 or a high quality GL-5 or higher 90w Hypoid LSD gear oil. These oils contain a friction modifier that will reduce noise associated with friction disc type limited slips.
REDLINE 80W-140 GL-5 GEAR OIL We highly recommend using Redline 80W140 GL-5 Gear Oil. Their part number is # 58104. For road racing applications, use Redline 80w-140.
* If you are wanting to increase the lock-up of the limited slip differential you will want to use Redline 80w-140 NS. This oil will increase lock-up but it does not contain the friction modifiers that reduce noise.
REDLINE SHOCKPROOF HEAVY If the vehicle is going to be drag raced Redline Shockproof Heavy is an excellent oil for the rear axle but outside temps should be 45*F or warmer because the oil is not thin enough for cold weather use.
Anyway, the straightline noise is odd. something is probably wrong? I noticed that for my tight radius turns my noise goes down if I change the ACD settings - I have the Gruppe-S aftermarket acd flash for more aggressive lockup. makes noticeably less noise in turns in Snow than Tarmac. Never get noise in straights though
Last edited by kyoo; Nov 7, 2011 at 09:24 PM.
#183
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
"Straight weight oils tend to have better lubrication qualities because they don’t have Viscosity Index Stabilizers taking up space. VIS only aid in control of viscosity but have little lubrication qualities. This is why Mitsu likes the straight 90w oil in the t-case." - jon@tre
I actually asked him a couple times because I did want to use Amsoil for my t-case and diffs (which I am). The e-mail in particular is in regard to some failures with t-case breaks in that Shep had using Amsoil svg gear to break in their built t-cases. In the end Jon@tre said... just use the correct oil. Shep said, just go with diaqueen. I'm still using Amsoil lol.
I'm just passing on this information. Take it or leave it. I chose to leave it, but thought maybe you'd want to know what they said
Again though, I'm not sure your particular issue is as simple as changing the fluid.. no one elses rear diff makes noise in the straights. good luck
Last edited by kyoo; Nov 8, 2011 at 06:03 AM.
#184
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Posts: 5,313
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Ok so Kyoo I hear the clutch plate chatter on low speed turns but nothing straight ahead. Should I leave the Diaqueen in it or should add a little shock proof or friction modifier to it? I did the Weir Racing 12 plate upgrade. Aside from the chatter it appears to be fine.
Its pretty pronounced (the sound). Is there a danger the plates will eventually wear all the way down.
Its pretty pronounced (the sound). Is there a danger the plates will eventually wear all the way down.
#185
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
Ok so Kyoo I hear the clutch plate chatter on low speed turns but nothing straight ahead. Should I leave the Diaqueen in it or should add a little shock proof or friction modifier to it? I did the Weir Racing 12 plate upgrade. Aside from the chatter it appears to be fine.
Its pretty pronounced (the sound). Is there a danger the plates will eventually wear all the way down.
Its pretty pronounced (the sound). Is there a danger the plates will eventually wear all the way down.
#188
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Yeah. Started with redline something-something NS (no friction modifier) and it was misserable. Chattered so much turning at any capacity.
Switched to diaqueen and it almost completely went away when turning but the whine is still there. Been exactly the same since I put the diff in ~2-3k miles ago.
Switched to diaqueen and it almost completely went away when turning but the whine is still there. Been exactly the same since I put the diff in ~2-3k miles ago.
#189
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
Yeah. Started with redline something-something NS (no friction modifier) and it was misserable. Chattered so much turning at any capacity.
Switched to diaqueen and it almost completely went away when turning but the whine is still there. Been exactly the same since I put the diff in ~2-3k miles ago.
Switched to diaqueen and it almost completely went away when turning but the whine is still there. Been exactly the same since I put the diff in ~2-3k miles ago.
#191
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
anyway but when I talked to the shop they said despite the bushing composition, because of the design of it, it hardly matters, might as well almost be solid. actually even with the stock bushings I heard the whine - oh I also had the mustache bar bushing or something put in as well which could be contributing
#194
Evolving Member
iTrader: (38)
I did the wier 12 plate and I noticed mild chatter at low speeds in turns, and also when in reverse. Actually in reverse it was quite loud. Using Amsoil in my diff. Also got some whiteline bushings in for the diff/mustache bar supports. I have not noticed any additional noise than the mild chatter listed above. Great mod for sure.
#195
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Hey there I did read all the pages, but was difficult to follow which one of you did the re arrange mod and which did the 12 plate WEIR.
I am just trying to see if those of you or most of you who did the OEM plate rearrange also had chatter issues after some driving?
M
I am just trying to see if those of you or most of you who did the OEM plate rearrange also had chatter issues after some driving?
M