Thanks for the write-up. Good stuff!

 

The Champ strikes again! Good work man. I need to get this done on my car soon.

 

I wonder if I can get this fixed under warranty..
(My warranty hasn't expired yet.)

Now, how to phrase the issue for the service writer?

-'chono'

 

High chance they won't know a single thing about this because it's nothing warranty related. Mitsu installed the discs like this to avoid the clicking sound so that Americans won't go into the dealership, complaining about a sound when it's actually normal.

Just ordered this kit and I'll definitely write a review for him on how good/bad it is.

And to Malocas, the rear diff is very easy to work on. This is my first time opening up any kind of diff and was just like you, nervous I might break something but in the end, I completely took it apart with no problem whatsoever. The most tricky thing you could do is drop the diff from the car but once dropped, it's smooth sailing from there.

 

But it's installed incorrectly per the service manual. I'd be interested to see what they say.

 

I think that it will be met with suspicion and/or confusion.
The real issue is how to frame the problem in a way that will get someone to take the diff out to see that the plates are backwards. And I don't think that I can say that I read it on the forums -- or at least I don't think I can.

Is there a way to measure the amount of friction that an LSD generates in lockup? Some way to show that it's out of spec?
"Um, hi, yes - um, my diff isn't making enough noise and I need it fixed."

The only other way that this would work is if I knew either a writer or a mechanic at the local mitsu dealership. One that would look at it without questioning.


-'chono'

 

I am going to be doing this when my rear diff fluid gets here. We would all appreciate a detailed write up but judging by the pictures it seems pretty straight forward. Can I do this without removing the differential housing from the car? I know it would be a pain but it seems like it would cut down on time.

 

Not plausible since the mustache bar is in the way.

 

Yeah, definitely not doing this in car.. I would also recommend changing the mustache bar bushings at the same time. Those things are extremely wimpy. And adding the urethane bushings to the mustache bar and front diff mounts only added a little bit of whine around 65, but its easily masked by road noise and the radio.

 

subscribed.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rear-diff.html

Here's a small writeup I did to help some of those guys doing or even thinking about doing this. Taking it apart is very straight forward and easy. Putting it all back together is another thing.

 

Here's the 'how-to' I used to remove the rear diff. We're almost there! Bits and pieces are coming together!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tial-diff.html

 

I am taking mine out as soon as my rear diff fluid gets here. I can take pics and do the write up for the removal stage.

So far I am thinking of going this route so I don't have to unbolt the suspension:

-Unbolt driveshaft
-Unbolt mustache bar
-Unbolt diff bolts and lower the diff with a jack stand
-Pop axles out

 

Thanks to all of you for putting this thread together. Great stuff!

 

The only problem I see is you can't just drop the diff and pop the axles out. The sway bar is in the way of the axles if you drop the diff out and then both the axles will still be stuck.

What I did was:
-Unbolt the RIGHT-REAR upper control arm
-Unbolt the lower control arm from the knuckle and shock, letting the arm hang
-Unbolt the rear end of your exhaust (just the muffler part and any other exhaust piping that's in the way if possible)
-Unbolt the 3 bolts in the back of the diff that's connected to the mustache bar (it's a very tight squeeze but possible to do)
-Pry both the axles out of the diff but don't take them completely out just yet
-Bend the right-rear hub as far out and take the right axle out of the diff. Hang it above the diff with a rope as the sway bar is in the way to let it hang
-Get your jack ready, unbolt the last 2 bolts holding the diff up, and start dropping the jack and move the diff to the right side of the car so that the last axle will come out
-BAM, it's out and you didn't even take off the mustache bar, axles out of the hub, etc. Biggest challenge here though is getting the right side axle out of the hole. You will need man power to bend the knuckle just enough to place it above the diff.

I would HIGHLY SUGGEST using the RIGHT SIDE because if you use the left, you would have to deal with the gas tube that is in the way of that one bolt in the upper control arm. For the left side, I had to unbolt the gas tube, bend it as far back as I can and try to get the bolt out. Took me a few hours alone on just that one bolt and never again will I do that side...