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Rear Diff clutch plates installed incorrectly from factory

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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 05:08 AM
  #46  
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From: central NJ
Originally Posted by EVO8emUp
I describe mine as a faint chatter, it's not loud by any means.
A buddy gave me a 4oz bottle of Amsoil Slip Lock additive.
He said it should eliminate the noise. He said the Ford LSD additive (4oz. bottle) works as well.
I'll be adding it after work today, so we'll see.
At least in the ford diff's, the additive also lessens the effectiveness of the LS. Maybe that's what it needs (happy medium between hardly working as it is now, and too tight for the street after doing this), but I'd hate to do all that work and then be back to where I was with the additive (more or less).

Last edited by OX; Jun 25, 2011 at 05:12 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #47  
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From: West Coast Yo
Originally Posted by Dallas J
I dont know about fixing the stock 8 plate, but my 12 plate is quite chattery with redline 75w-140NS. During the winter Ill use factory diaqueen as Ive heard that pretty much shuts them up.
You're not supposed to be using the "NS" version For the DIY guys DO NOT FORGET YOU NEED TO RE-SHIM it when you do this. I just had mine done a couple days ago, and my car does not make any chatter/clunking noises. But man it is awesome smashing the throttle into a turn now hehe
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #48  
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From: Wheeling, WV
You don't have to re-shim anything when rearranging the plates.
The only time you would have to re-shim is if the ring and pinion are not meshing properly.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 11:59 AM
  #49  
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Here's my 5min parking lot review. I did a friction circle test and at steady state turning at the tire's grip threshold, the car still wants to understeer. It was neutral at best, but the circle kept getting larger and larger with the front tires slightly sliding out more so than the rears. BUT as soon as I smashed the gas, the rear end kicked out. It needs the torque to lock up. By the way, I have no clunks and noises whatsoever.

Here's a video in the meantime showing you power oversteer with this re-assembly mod. I'll keep updating the thread with reviews as I get to test it on the tracks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2k9Nn5vySk
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 12:10 PM
  #50  
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Show us more. Be careful not to mess up your power steering by locking the steering wheel.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 01:31 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Thoe99
Here's my 5min parking lot review. I did a friction circle test and at steady state turning at the tire's grip threshold, the car still wants to understeer. It was neutral at best, but the circle kept getting larger and larger with the front tires slightly sliding out more so than the rears. BUT as soon as I smashed the gas, the rear end kicked out. It needs the torque to lock up. By the way, I have no clunks and noises whatsoever.

Here's a video in the meantime showing you power oversteer with this re-assembly mod. I'll keep updating the thread with reviews as I get to test it on the tracks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2k9Nn5vySk
i bet you were so stoke when the rear came out
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 01:43 PM
  #52  
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From: New Jersey
i have the TRE rear 12 plate upgrade and HD side cover. i also do not here or feel any clunks or sounds. maybe its only 1 in 20 that do it?
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 02:19 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by l888apex
You're not supposed to be using the "NS" version

For autox you can use the NS for maximum lockup. Though slow speed turning will definitely feel a bit of bind. Its pretty agressive with it and in the winter Ill definitely run the diaqueen LSD fluid.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 02:25 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
For autox you can use the NS for maximum lockup. Though slow speed turning will definitely feel a bit of bind. Its pretty agressive with it and in the winter Ill definitely run the diaqueen LSD fluid.
just FYI with my cusco i dont get a clicking - i get violent banging from the rear end that will shake the entire car. works great lol. when i want to hush it up i just add lsd friction modifier - adding enough it will completely go away
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 02:29 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
just FYI with my cusco i dont get a clicking - i get violent banging from the rear end that will shake the entire car. works great lol. when i want to hush it up i just add lsd friction modifier - adding enough it will completely go away
Mines more of a chatter but definitely aggressive. I have no problem with it cause I only care about auto-x. I can live with anything as long as its helping lap times . I got SS corvettes to keep up with in PAX, gotta do everything I can
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Mines more of a chatter but definitely aggressive. I have no problem with it cause I only care about auto-x. I can live with anything as long as its helping lap times . I got SS corvettes to keep up with in PAX, gotta do everything I can
yea definitely - i just mention because i dont want ppl to be worrying about clicking/chattering. perfectly ok
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 02:39 PM
  #57  
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Not adding anything of value, just subscribing.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #58  
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Any possible negative side-effects from doing this besides the possibility of chatter during slow turns? I'm tempted to do this but I've never taken apart anything drivetrain-related, a friend of mine does rather often though (it's a Jeep thing ) so I guess he could help

Last edited by Raptord; Jun 25, 2011 at 03:41 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #59  
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From: Cayman islands
Could anyone post up the part numbers for the OEM plates and shims? I am looking to rebuild my Evo3 rear diff (they use the same stuff internally)
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 05:14 PM
  #60  
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From: Butt**** Nowhere
If the factory LSD is a 1 way, then it only works on acceleration. So some oversteer with throttle and then nothing else otherwise. Great for auto-x.
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