So I finally switched out my HKS BOV that came on the car with a APS with a recriculated injen intake. The only problem is when I bought the BOV the guy had said he adjusted it and as far as my knowledge on this BOV it is best at optimal settings. So what is optimal setting? How many threads should be showing on the top nut adjustment? It holds boost perfect just getting flutter even a WOT. Thanks in advance and yes I did a search.

 

http://www.airpowersystems.com/wrx/blow.htm

 

That shows some pics with it not threaded at all and some with it threaded. If someone has one that is optimal setting and can just count the threads that will be cool!

 

Bump....still fluttering. Swoosh th-th-th-th-th-th-th-th-th

 

Just speaking from my experience....teflon tape the adjustment screw AND apply liquid gasket to seal up the cylinder where the rubber o-ring is. I used a bead of Hondabond on the outside of the o-ring. That's what it took to get mine to stop fluttering. Good luck. I know how frustrating it can be.

 

+1

 

Before I apply the teflon about how many threads should I have showing?

and also where is that o-ring your talking about? I also searched before and a few people said to oil it...are you really supposed to oil the bov and if so then where. And yes it is Frustrating! ughhhhh haha thanks for the tips and I hope you can help me through the rest of it so my car doesn't sound like a freakin duck sneazing. lol

 

Buy a Tial.

My HKS sounds like a turkey call. Swoooooshhhhh-shhh-shhhh-shhh-gobble-gobble-gobble.

 

The adjustment depends on your car, theres no "perfect adjustment" you need to research and find out how to do it. Mine is non adjustable and still new with turbo cars so I havent gotten to that point yet so can't help ya there

 

I did the Teflon tape but can someone tell me where the o-ring is or how to get to it

 

Sorry, haven't had a chance to check back to EvoM for the last couple of days. Locate the four allen screws on the end of the BOV. Unscrew them. Remove the cap/end of the BOV. Once removed, you can't miss the o-ring.

While you have the cap off, I recommend that you pull the cylinder and spring assembly out, and load it up with grease. I've been using "green grease" with good results so far. Obviously don't overdo it though. You don't want to keep the spring from being able to move freely and allow the BOV to do it's job correctly.

Once that's done and back together, place a bead of sealant, like Hondabond, around where the cap meets the base of the BOV on the outside of where the o-ring is. Tighten the cap down nice and snug with the allen screws, and you should be all set. Hopefully that all makes sense. I know it's not the most technical description on how to do it.

 

Holy God!?!?! Why has no one just told him to loosen the screw to lighten the pre load!??!!?

 

Speaking from my personal experience, that didn't do ish to fix the flutter I was getting with my APS, so I recommended what fixed my issue.

 

did you ever get this fixed? I'm having the same issue, same bov, ive adjusted the screw in and out, pulled it all apart all that fun stuff, cant figure it out.