Just did, I have a relatively large neodymium magnet laying around. Sure enough, the housing strongly attracts the magnet. The tubular manifold I have does not. Bummer.

 

I suppose the A3N could be meant to indicate something else, but at this point I'd say strike one for actual vs advertised (indicated?).

 

Yeahs it's really weird. My stock o-ring was shot so we crossed our fingers and ran it without and went for it with no issues for a long time until apparently it stopped holding. Apparently the difference is it's a little tighter so it seals better. It sucked and is frustrating to pay almost as much in shipping for the seal as it cost for the seal itself...FML

 

MOST "321 stainless" exhaust manifolds from China aren't 321 at all, not even close. Yet they advertise them as such, likely the same case here, they could cast "unobtainium" in it and it still doesn't mean much.

Sucks the housings are ****ty, looked like a good option. The wastegate issue was my biggest concern with them though. Bigger wastegate passages don't help at all for high boost.

That said, it looks like his housing may have had some core shift. Something that should have been caught in a quality inspection...oh wait, this was made in China though so it probably comes down to "luck of the draw."

 

While the concept of this housing is pretty, the quality of this piece is not .. make one that is actually flow tested, cast ss like a tial we'd be in business.

There will always be clipped wheels though.

 

My 71hta failed in the same way as yours aftet 400 miles were put on it. Going to fp tomorrow. Will lost updates. I only have the 10.5 cover though. So they cant blame it on that.

 

Please update!

 

I have been through some turbos over the years. Sometimes it is luck of the draw just as some cars just make more power with less effort. Bent shaft is a tough one and is usually an imbalance, foreign object damaging a wheel, or a faulty shaft to start with that just was not up to the task.

I have learned over the years with FP--- if they want you to use the oil kit, use it. Yes you may be able to save some money assembling it yourself, but if a problem does arise--- it is one less thing that they can pick on. At that point you have installed it as per their spec and also should also use the oil that they recommended.

I just tore down my engine that has been together for 8-years and has been run at power levels ranging from ~400hp with the stock turbo to over 900hp with a Borg Warner. The car was also setup to rev to 10k and it did go there when required on the track. Oil was Motul 5w-30 Competition. What did I find when it was all taken apart? Absolutely everything was perfect. Nothing was damaged, nothing was scored. No abnormal wear, nothing damaged. Turbo sent out-- dead perfect and simply reassembled with some new seals. It made me a believer in better oil. I also learned this years ago with my DSM.... I ran Royal Purple standard synthetic oils and I did have marks on the rod bearings... at the time it was making 600-700hp. After a freshening I used their racing version of the oil.... never saw a mark again. From that day forward on anything that I have that is asked to do some tricks for me... I make sure I use a damn good oil that is meant for the job. Think about it... at 800hp it is 200hp per cylinder.... Even at 500hp, that is still 125hp per cylinder and ~1/2 liter of displacement. Even a high output 4-cyl like the S2000 is only about 60hp per cylinder.


Technical10

 

My second one has failed . I seem to destroy thrust washers easily for some reason. My feedline was okayed by fp..

 

Sometimes it is just luck of the draw. Going through the thrust is really not good and sometimes answers are not so easy to come by. I would say imbalance or improper tolerances, but unfortunately looking at the aftermath does not always give a clear reason why. I have seen people run one particular size turbo and eat it time and time again.... switch to some other brand of the same size or even up or down in size and all was happy.

Wish I could actually contribute something and maybe the roads you drive, your car's particular setup, your driving style, and the moons line up just right making it a bad combination for you. I would suggest going to something slightly bigger and see what happens. Tough call and hopefully FP works with you on it. Also glad to see they give the thumbs up with your oil line.

Technical10

 

how much boost r u running?

do you ever experience any surge?

are you running a ebc or mbc?

 

24-26 peak tapering 22ish. I've played with both set ups mbc and ebc. . On spring now.. 15.. lok No surge I do have the fap though . I have had a lot of anti lag and a few 30+ psi playings ..I'm sure between that and a lot of launch boost 20!! I got more than my monies from this thing. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat but my power goals is moving to red on easy boost something like 450 vddj or 380+ at stm on 93 and safe with the vipec (knock and worry free timing )

There was a bit of sarcasm in my post above , all the als experimenting I did I expected this to happen and by no means implies a bad product

 

sad to see these HTA71s failing, I love mine but I'm upgrading to the red for more power and to keep my bottom end happy, the HTA71 is a TQ monster. I will say that the HTA71 is pretty stout, I've never had surge and I don't have the upgraded compressor housing.

 

Again I've done nasty things to mine.. like a ton of very aggressive unmonitored egt als ..

However egt and emap will now be on my list of logging.

 

Mine that was supposedly just rebuilt by FP when I bought it now has in-out shaft play after 10 autocross events and ~2k miles at 28psi tapering to 24psi. I'll be rebuilding this winter. If it does it again next year, its getting replaced.