Follow up on previous thread about clutch fork
The wedge collar is still attached to the throw out bearing right now. You can see that by looking at the angle of the clutch fork arm position.
When you disconnect the TOB from the wedge collar assembly then the fork arm will go all the way to the left and just sit there. Until thats done you will not get the trans out unless you bust the wedge collar from the pressure plate, which is not something i recommend as it will potentially damage the snap ring.
Theres a guide on here how to get it off.. you need to remove those rubber pieces uptop and you need to shine a bright light through a hole (not the one you're looking into) and then use a big flat head screw driver and wedge it off while tugging on the fork arm
Heres the tutorial you're looking for:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-bearing.html
When you disconnect the TOB from the wedge collar assembly then the fork arm will go all the way to the left and just sit there. Until thats done you will not get the trans out unless you bust the wedge collar from the pressure plate, which is not something i recommend as it will potentially damage the snap ring.
Theres a guide on here how to get it off.. you need to remove those rubber pieces uptop and you need to shine a bright light through a hole (not the one you're looking into) and then use a big flat head screw driver and wedge it off while tugging on the fork arm
Heres the tutorial you're looking for:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-bearing.html
Tell me about it...if this requires me taking it off again, it'll be the third time.
Here's a pic of what it looks like in the inspection hole. When I put my old throwout bearing on the stock pressure plate, it looks exactly like what I see in the inspection hole (besides the Exedy pressure plate). And when I try to move the fork to the left, it's extremely hard but I can see the pressure plate fingers moving slightly outwards.
Here's a pic of what it looks like in the inspection hole. When I put my old throwout bearing on the stock pressure plate, it looks exactly like what I see in the inspection hole (besides the Exedy pressure plate). And when I try to move the fork to the left, it's extremely hard but I can see the pressure plate fingers moving slightly outwards.
The wedge collar is still attached to the throw out bearing right now. You can see that by looking at the angle of the clutch fork arm position.
When you disconnect the TOB from the wedge collar assembly then the fork arm will go all the way to the left and just sit there. Until thats done you will not get the trans out unless you bust the wedge collar from the pressure plate, which is not something i recommend as it will potentially damage the snap ring.
Theres a guide on here how to get it off.. you need to remove those rubber pieces uptop and you need to shine a bright light through a hole (not the one you're looking into) and then use a big flat head screw driver and wedge it off while tugging on the fork arm
Heres the tutorial you're looking for:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-bearing.html
When you disconnect the TOB from the wedge collar assembly then the fork arm will go all the way to the left and just sit there. Until thats done you will not get the trans out unless you bust the wedge collar from the pressure plate, which is not something i recommend as it will potentially damage the snap ring.
Theres a guide on here how to get it off.. you need to remove those rubber pieces uptop and you need to shine a bright light through a hole (not the one you're looking into) and then use a big flat head screw driver and wedge it off while tugging on the fork arm
Heres the tutorial you're looking for:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-bearing.html
So does that mean I'm good to go and continue bolting everything up?
Also tip.. theres a bolt that holds the trans in the back under the intake manifold area that you cant back off until the transfercase is removed from the transmission entirely.. its setup so the bolt is to long and will not come all the way out unless the tcase is pushed away from it.. why mitsubishi decided to put a bolt there is beyond me.. but i know it tricks/ stumps a lot of people when doing a trans install.
also another tip.. when you do go to put the trans back in make sure you swing the back part UP high and watch the lower portion of the trans against the subframe.. you need to make sure it clears the subframe in the back.. once its swung up high and subframe is cleared it will slide right into place then its a matter of rotating it forward a few inches and you push in and good to go.
I used a hoist yesterday when i put mine back in and it went super smooth. Good luck!
Evo's are a major PITA to do a transmission job though.. as bad as pulling the entire engine.
also another tip.. when you do go to put the trans back in make sure you swing the back part UP high and watch the lower portion of the trans against the subframe.. you need to make sure it clears the subframe in the back.. once its swung up high and subframe is cleared it will slide right into place then its a matter of rotating it forward a few inches and you push in and good to go.
I used a hoist yesterday when i put mine back in and it went super smooth. Good luck!
Evo's are a major PITA to do a transmission job though.. as bad as pulling the entire engine.
Pull those rubber connectors off and look in there when you push it to the right and if it compresses the wave rings and everything goes in towards the clutch its done.

Is there anybody else that and give me a second opinion? Does it look like everything is buttoned up properly so I can continue to tighten stuff up?
put it this way.. you remember when your fork arm was all the way to the left right? just sitting to the left 100%? then you pushed it to the right and it clicked in then held its position? well when it clicks in and holds its position that is when it attaches to the throwout bearing.. i assure you its 100% connected. if you tried to yank the trans out with it connected though you are gonna weaken its ability to stay in the pressure plate.. so be careful.
Wait I just had an idea...why don't I just disconnect the throwout bearing with the screwdriver and see if it reconnects properly? If it does, then I think I'm golden.
Will report back in a few.
Will report back in a few.
OK I successfully disconnected it and swung the fork back over and it latched on like it was before. So I'm pretty sure I have nothing to worry about.
As for all those saying that it looks like the fork is too far to the left, can you post pics and show what you mean?
Thanks for all the help guys!
As for all those saying that it looks like the fork is too far to the left, can you post pics and show what you mean?
Thanks for all the help guys!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MitsuJoe
Evo How To Requests / Questions / Tips
468
Feb 20, 2016 11:17 AM
TommiM
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
3
Aug 5, 2013 06:19 PM




