brad

i'm thinking of adding grounds to my car, and for audio purposes as well (to reduce noise and voltage drops). is this just a waste of time, or could i possibly see improvements there?

(also, i did try to read the last 7 pages of your debate, and though i'm no electrician, it sounded like you had the better understanding, hence me asking you this question. thanks in advance.)

 

coda,

I am sure that brad will be able to help he obviously understands the wasted spark ignition system. I assume that you are installing an aftermarket sound system. The key to eliminating noise is to have no current running through the ground to which the audio is connected. Direct runs to the battery are your best bet. Current running through the ground creates voltage differences between ground points and the system can produce noise as a result. If you can't manage direct runs to the battery, just make sure that all of the audio equipment is grounded at a single point. If the line level signals are a balanced line type setup then the common mode noise rejection should eliminate all but the most extreme noise sources.

Best of luck!!!

 

Don't get your panties in a bunch, I wasn't challenging you. I'm just asking to be sure I'm clear on what it is you are saying. I think this may be a little over my head. To be honest, when I saw two coils on the valve cover I automatically assumed each coil sent power to both plugs at the same time. It seemed to be common sense to someone like myself that doesn’t know a lot about power distribution.

To me it seems like you said the charge goes down one plug electrode, jumps the gap to the ground electrode, runs across the head to the ground electrode of the next plug connected to the coil and jumps the gap to the... what would ordinarily be considered the positive electrode and back to the coil. As if the second plug fires backwards?

I must have glazed over Mike W's post. I’ll go back and be sure to read it over again. Thanks.

[Edited for clarity]

 

So all Evos have a problem idling with the lights radio and A/C on? The ones I have been in didn't have that problem...

So since the lights don't dim, the car MUST be getting adequate spark now? Am I missing the jump in logic required to get this? Does the spark current travel through the headlights?


Consistent? Is the stock ground strap impedance not consistent? I didn't realize they used the variable impedance ground straps from the factory, those things SUCK!

Brad

 

That is exactly how it works. The link I posted to the Toyota wiring diagram shows this graphically, I haven't seen too many sites that really cover that aspect of how the dual output coil DIS ignition systems work. It seems odd when you first think about it, but it is the only way for the current loop to be completed. And it works pretty well firing the plugs like this, from a manufacturer's standpoint.

Brad

 

JDF's suggestions are very good. Adding grounds to other things shouldn't make as much of a difference, although it might be worth testing adding grounds and upgraded power wires to the alternator and/or starter, if you want to get that last little bit of noise rejection. The important thing is to make the power and ground wires to the stereo components clean, large enough gauge for the distance you are running, and peak current the amp(s) will pull, like JDF mentioned. Also, check placement of the wires. It will have an effect as well, if you are running them to the back of the car. And bypass caps if you have amps with a lot of peak current draw will help a good bit. I'm not too much into the car audio scene though, I'd really suggest looking into a car audio forum for tips on wiring systems, and cable routing, etc.

Good Luck,
Brad