I'm a few steps past that....

 

well im sure uve over looked this but judging by your pics, you sure you plugged in the connector that sits behind the engine oil cap by the fuel rail, iirc isnt that the connector for the crank angle sensor... if thats not plugged in no no matter of cusswords or praying would start the car...check it and try? good luck

 

Yeah, it's plugged in. Without that sensor plugged in the car would have no spark or injector pulse, thus not allowing it to start up, even if it is for a few seconds.

 

Could this be my problem? The tab on my CAS looks significantly smaller than the tab found in the picture on EvoMoto.
Mine:


Theirs:
http://www.evomoto.com/article_image.../step_492.jpeg

 

Very interesting perception. I've never noticed this. If your CAS activator is stock and not modified, this could be the reason for all of those P0300 codes lol and why some EVO's have it and some don't. Heh. Just a thought.

Move along to the crank pickup/associated wiring. I have noticed that the crank sensor connector pins could get out of square/recessed/corroded and not make contact correctly. My DSM did exaclty what your EVO did when that was the issue. Starts, ramps, dies. This was with an OEM EVO 8 ECU though.

If your tune was off or even a tooth was off, the car should still idle albeit maybe crappily--or be able to be "helped" to idle.

Re check all your ignition wiring and fuses too for continuity/corrosion.

 

Did you reflash the ECU?

 

he has an aem, but no cable to do anything yet.

 

Either your cam gears are installed wrong or you have to manually turn the crank 6 rotations to make sure all the marks line up.

 

At TDC, the larger tab for the CAS is supposed to be closest to the bottom. Unbolt it and turn it 180 degrees. I probably would have mentioned this earlier had you not said you checked everything over again and was positive you had it all right due to you having built many engine's :P
Good luck man. Should solve your starting issue.

Aaron

 

The big tab was cut down.....That's why I took that picture.......It starts up. With the CAS in wrong it won't get spark or fuel, thus it wouldn't start up and run for a little then shut off.....

 

Does the car stay running if you give it 10-15% throttle?

 

No, it still dies. That confused me even more. However, I retarded the exhaust cam 4* last night and it started right up, and with me helping it, it ran for almost a minute. It then shut off and didn't start back up. I also tried unplugging the IAT sensor and starting it. Didn't start. Then I tried unplugging the CT sensor and it didn't start then either.

 

GSC S2's should run straight up. It might need a little throttle assist, depending how closed your biss screw is. Why don't you just do a compression test? Should be around 150 psi with those cams.

 

I know that they run straight up. However, I retarded them 4 degrees to make vacuum closer to what it was when the Brian Crower cams were in there, thus telling me if it is a tune issue or not. I'm going to do a compression test next.

 

Ok man. I assumed you already went the ECU checking route. Seems like not. A compression check would be fine because it's basically non-destructive.

You need to log all of your sensors at startup and during the minute that the car stays on. There is something fishy. I would wait for the cable--if it is a AEM V1, go get a USB to serial and plug that sucker up to the laptop, install/download the software, and verify all settings, but most of all, log everything.

CAM SENSOR
CRANK SENSOR
IAT
MAP
INJECTOR PULSE WIDTH
BATTERY
KNOCK
TIMING ADVANCE
FUEL/WBO2

...to name a few. The answers will become apparent.