i have decided to push the car hard between 1k and 2k
first oil change to be at 2k
i read somewhere that keeping the oil, with break-in metals in it, actually helps the break-in period for that engine.

 

Now that we heard from 100+ ppl saying what they did during break-in and didn't screw it up, can hear from those who screwed up by doing something wrong?

 

Seems like every new Evo owner goes through this stage of break-in paranoia and guilt, I did too.

 

I'm gonna post something that may sound very stupid, but i'm doing it anyway :-)

I work on tugboats with engines up to 6000hp.
In the oil filters of those engines are magets installed to "filter" out any kind of metal parts that are swimming in the oil.

Why not do it with your evo i thaught so.....

Just put a magnet onto your oilcarter under the car, and all the metal parts will stay in place in your carter and don't swim around anymore.

With your 1st oil chance you can "guide" the metal parts (if there are any) out of your carter by moving the magnet to your oil-outlet hole......or something like that (my english is not 100% asi'm living in Belgium, but i think you'll understand what i mean)

Grtz

Ben

 

I am not a mitsu guy (yet), but I have done alot with turbo honda's, and alot of the big named engine builders and tuners would recommend driving the car on the break in, as you were going to drive the car regularly. Like if ya got a lead foot, break the motor in with a lead foot. Honda's and Mitsu's are apples and oranges but this was on turbo setups for honda's...Just my little insight. I could post a link to the thread where the engine builders were talking about it.

Dunno if your allowed to post links to other forums though.

 

MY car was broken in on Buschurs dyno when brand new. It must have had maybe a little over a mile on it because when i picked it up at Medina Mitsubishi after the BR350 install it had two miles on it. I called Dave up from medina to ask him about if the 500 mile ride home at fast highway speeds would be bad for the break-in. He told me dont worry, it was broken in on the dyno just have fun and have a safe ride home. I have 8600 miles on it and it doesnt burn any oil at all so far.It even feels faster and quicker every time i drive it. I bought a 92 nissan sentra SE-R brand new. I asked the service manager when i could start to get on the car and he told me as soon as i pull off the lot redline it to 7500 rpm,s and dont stop untill you get rid of the car. I said really how long.He told me i,m not joking,these cars are made different then they used to be with different metals and materials.( this was in 92) etc. He said everyone who breaks there car in the way he tells them never came back for any kind of engine work. That sentra lasted me 8 years of extremely spirited driving and commuting(130 miles a day) at usually a steady 85 mph with bursts up to 140 every day. That car was redlined at 7500 rpm,s and saw it 10x a day at least.It never burned a drop of oil between changes at 3k. I sold it at 170k miles to a friend,and its still running today with over 300k on it.

 

is this true?

 

Don't know if this will help anyone but here was my process...
0-300 miles: light throttle to 3500rpm
300-400 miles: 50 percent throttle to 4000rpm
400-600 miles: 80 percent throttle to a little past 5000rpm

still taking it easy till i change the oil around 800, the im going to open it up

 

AMS reccomended method:
http://www.amsperformance.com//instr...structions.pdf

 

Don't know how much it relates, but I've always changed the oil on my bikes after the first 100-500 miles then again at 1500 miles, and lastly at 3000 miles. After that just every 3000 and only sooner if it had seen a lot of track time or wheelies.

 

Well I dont know about how most do it here and what results they got. But my previous car was Dodge SRT-4. Everyone that beat the living **** out of the car from day 1 had no problems in the future and generally dynoed more than those that babied the car.

Now I'm not saying beat the **** out of the car, because there are other parts that need to wear and break in, but hard acceleration should be done in my opinion.

Also if I'm not mistaken, arent these motors/parts laser cut? If so then what needs to shave off besides the piston rings properly sitting in? I could be wrong but from what I have been reading this is my conclusion.

Lets start a thread about gas mileage on cars that got babied during break in vs those that had a lot of spirited driving... If those that werent affraid to push the gas pedal are getting better MPG's, then we might have something solid here.

 

I am picking up my IX MR tonight and called our "friend to the family Porsche Master Tech," and this is what he had to say...

You CANNOT break a motor in using synthetic oil. Since EVO's come with synthetic oil, it is very likely that the motor has already been broken in prior to installation. He suggested taking it easy for the first few hundred miles (which will already be on it by the time I get it), and just drive it after that point however you want. Of course, change the oil after 1,000 and then it would be ok to wait until 5,000 if you wanted. He said that because it is likely that it was pre-broken in and a factory build motor, it is unlikely there will be any additional debris after the initial break-in.


Thoughts?

 

REVIVE! I thought I'd post this article here instead of a new thread

http://www.novustechnic.com/breakin_1.htm

I think I trust this over a hard break in theory