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444hp/412tq - Knocking on the stock rods limit?

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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #16  
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You'll be alright as long as you take care of it and dont beat on it every chance you get.

Nice numbers tho!

Last edited by S13 Curtis; Dec 4, 2011 at 01:09 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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what's the reasoning you say that ?
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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Cause it has been proven time and time again
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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I'm still tryin to see what you are saying. Please be explicit. Is he running a lot of timing there by chance ?
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:37 PM
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If you look at his log, he is only running 14 degrees of timing. Up top that is fine and he is under the 400 ft lb of tq range. I mean what more info would you like I can do my best to explain it.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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i did 424TQ(mustang dyno) on the stock rods/stock turbo setup...the cars still kicking
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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Cursedsm, I was mixed up, asking Todd what it was that neded work in that rpm range. I was wondering if he was referring to his timing curve.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:57 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
Cursedsm, I was mixed up, asking Todd what it was that neded work in that rpm range. I was wondering if he was referring to his timing curve.
Ah ok its cool.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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Stock rod HP

Torque can kill an engine but it is fairly rare in the 4G63. It can be very hard to say whether toque or lubrication was the source of a broken rod. As has been said many times before, detonation will quickly kill a motor built with the best parts period. If you see a motor with good rod bearings and bent rod then maybe torque was the cause. Rods can be defective and rods can have minor twists or bends that only become a problem when the wick is turned up.
Information that I have received from many sources says that Evo8 stock rod bolts are the weak link in the stock rod and RPM and detonation are you biggest concerns. I am at 425 WHP but I have had ARP fasteners throughout my engine for years before I went over 300 WHP. I also set my rev limiter to 7200 to eliminate my temptation to leave the car in a gear much after my power peak. As a minimum you might consider pulling your oil pan and checking your rod bearings especially the top half of each one. If they look worn, replace them and determine what caused the wear. This service can be done on jack stands in your garage. It is also an excellent time to put on ARP rod bolts and of lesser importance, ARP main fasteners. Most high quality tuners and engine builders would say that with a good tune you are still okay. That does not mean that the motor will tolerate tons of drag racing or track days. You have taken it closer to its limits and you might want exercise some caution consistent with that fact.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 02:54 PM
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personally when someone ask for my opinion - ill just say keep it within 380tq (dynojet) .. the engines all vary due to age, etc.. so there is no real answer for everyone.

silverghost - lets be honest, the evo 4g63 is no 6 bolt big rod 1g..
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
what's the reasoning you say that ?
10.8 /10.9 afr @ peak load
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by silverghost
Torque can kill an engine but it is fairly rare in the 4G63. It can be very hard to say whether toque or lubrication was the source of a broken rod. As has been said many times before, detonation will quickly kill a motor built with the best parts period. If you see a motor with good rod bearings and bent rod then maybe torque was the cause. Rods can be defective and rods can have minor twists or bends that only become a problem when the wick is turned up.
Information that I have received from many sources says that Evo8 stock rod bolts are the weak link in the stock rod and RPM and detonation are you biggest concerns. I am at 425 WHP but I have had ARP fasteners throughout my engine for years before I went over 300 WHP. I also set my rev limiter to 7200 to eliminate my temptation to leave the car in a gear much after my power peak. As a minimum you might consider pulling your oil pan and checking your rod bearings especially the top half of each one. If they look worn, replace them and determine what caused the wear. This service can be done on jack stands in your garage. It is also an excellent time to put on ARP rod bolts and of lesser importance, ARP main fasteners. Most high quality tuners and engine builders would say that with a good tune you are still okay. That does not mean that the motor will tolerate tons of drag racing or track days. You have taken it closer to its limits and you might want exercise some caution consistent with that fact.
very good info
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 01:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Frew
very good info
not really. most engine failures are from to much torque and the rod bolts usually remain intact when it happens..

and him opening up his response with " torque rarely kills a 4g63" is funny. he actually thinks the high rev's and hp are killing the engine more so then torque.. hes dead wrong.

almost every failure ive ever seen on this forum occurs low rpm at peak load due to torque.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:05 AM
  #29  
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My car on a fp red with 420tq (mustang) lasted a year and a half of constant abuse. I would suggest if you do not plan on building it anytime soon get arp rodbolts and new bearings installed since you are a little over 400tq the stock rod bolts can shear off around this power level. Just a extra bit of reassurance, does not mean it will last forever. My rod in cylinder #2 decided it was sick of the abuse and snapped. Was fun while it lasted though.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:58 AM
  #30  
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rods go before bolts, ive seen plenty with bolts still intact but only half a rod

hp doesnt kill rods torque does .
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