Getting my flywheel resurfaced. The machine shop I brought it to said they may or may not have to cut off the 3 guide pins in order to separate the flywheel to resurface it. The guy at the shop said the guide pins are not necessary, is this true?

 

A good machine shop will remove the pins, cut the flywheel and put them back in. They should be left in there.

 

the guide pin on an evo fly are extremely hard to get out. but they are needed. so take the fly to another shop that can get them out. I went through this earlier this year.

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I called the machine shop and the guy said he tried to get the pins out but couldn't. He's going to try again and if he can't get them I will be bringing the flywheel somewhere else. Anyone know of a shop in the Dutchess County NY area??

 

Why are you going to bother having a shop re surface your flywheel. It'll never be perfect again, which means your clutch will be wearing slightly at all times. Hydraulic clutches need a perfectly flush flywheel unlike old mechanical clutch cars. Do yourself a favor and just spend a little more money on a flywheel it's worth it.

 

Really... Clutches always wear, just like brake pads, it's what they do. So by your philosophy, it's pointless to turn brake rotors as well, it's practically a flywheel in itself:

pressure plate > clutch disc > flywheel = caliper > brake pad > rotor

 

Tell me a benefit to keeping an old flywheel besides being a cheap fool or a poor kid. If your changing your clutch why not do both? Yes you use your clutch a lot but just using it to shift really doesn't do much wear as long as you don't drive like an idiot. Riding the clutch or having it slip slightly over 30k miles will make a difference. It doesn't take a genius to know how a clutch works. Also why are you turning your rotors? How do you drive??? I use blank Centrics and I wear them right out to nothing without them EVER warping. Someone needs to learn how to drive

 

nothing wrong with resurfacing fly once. after that I would buy a new one. one cut wont effect geometry. 30 bucks to surface. or 150 for new one.

 

They should be left in there.

 

Nothing wrong with getting it resufaced just make sure If the pins are remove make sure the person who refits them does a good job

had my fly wheel done once pin popped out didnt end well for the gearbox

 

Actually, English Racing relies heavily on stock flywheels, as they are indeed a bit more beneficial towards drivability and don't really leave much power at stake as compared to an aftermaket flywheel. I'm sure the guys at English Racing are all "cheap fools and poor kids" .

Also, many aftermarket flywheels have steel friction plates mounted on aluminum, and they expand at different rates, thus ending up in you having to tear out your clutch after ~6,000 miles, depending on your driving style. Yet another reason to re-surface your stock flywheel.

 

Where are you getting a stock flywheel for $150? I was quoted $417 from four different places.

 

If you do go aftermarket go 1 piece steel construction. That part is too abused to be made any other way IMO.

 

Wow, you instantly start off by name calling. I remember doing that when I was in middle school. You do understand that there are people in this world that are sometimes on a budget, right? The difference in resurfacing the oem flywheel ($40) versus lets say a Competition Clutch one ($290) is $250. While that might be chump change to some, but I still have a car payment, school loans and the regular monthly bills. Maybe next time I need a car part, I'll come to you since you seem to have $$ just lying around.

"How do you drive???" and "Someone needs to learn how to drive"... Just how many sets of rotors have you used? I'm still using the oem ones with 129k on the clock and they've been turned once, and that was earlier this year. I envy you, since you clearly exhibit the skills to drive a car so efficiently and perfectly that you never wear the parts out.

 

remove ring gear with a punch and hammer ,mark the position of the pins drill 2 small holes at the back corresponding to where the pins are use a punch to punch them out , tap them back in when its skimmed heat the ring gear with a reasonable sized blow torch to expand it and tap (beat) it back on . make sure the beveled side of the gear to the eng side of the fly .