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2,4 Long Rod!?

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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 10:05 AM
  #31  
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Oil squirters have more to do with stroke and what rods are being used. There is not much room for error to make the oil squirter fit correctly. You can bend them to make them fit but then they break eventually.

Easy solution- no oil squirters.

Last edited by JohnBradley; Dec 14, 2011 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 11:25 AM
  #32  
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
sven I believe its 156mm

@ER I think the machine shop I used said that they machined them in. I'm not a engine builder so maybe I have it wrong.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #33  
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From: Top Secret....
Good, I guess that part is decided for me.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #34  
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The new 2.4L (4G64) block will require a modification to accept the MIVEC oil supply line for the IX head. These usually come already modified by the engine provider/builder as MAP and ER provide this with their new short blocks.

Last edited by whtrice; Dec 14, 2011 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 07:24 PM
  #35  
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From: Top Secret....
Has anyone ventured out there and built this motor from the ground up by themselves? I'm not sure what way I want to go just yet, getting a built one from a shop is quite pricey but it pretty much guarantees proper operation once installed but If you do it on your own you can go at your own pace and pay for stuff little by little if you have to budget for it. But you run the risk of having something go wrong and being SH*T out of your money......... hmmmm decisions decisions
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by DaGermanEvo9
Has anyone ventured out there and built this motor from the ground up by themselves? I'm not sure what way I want to go just yet, getting a built one from a shop is quite pricey but it pretty much guarantees proper operation once installed but If you do it on your own you can go at your own pace and pay for stuff little by little if you have to budget for it. But you run the risk of having something go wrong and being SH*T out of your money......... hmmmm decisions decisions
You could build one yourself but there is a lot of machine work that needs to be done by a professional. Bore, hone, deck, align hone (recommended for sure), notch block, balance assembly, accurately measure and check all oil clearances.

In the end you can pretty much assemble it but that is it.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #37  
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From: Top Secret....
Damn! I see your point....
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 10:16 PM
  #38  
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From: Top Secret....
On another note, stupid stupid question Im sure, I tried searching but not to much luck. What, if any major differences are there between the 64 block from an A/T and a M/T. Crankshaft? block thickness? I cant seem to find that " For sure answer ", Any help as always is appreciated!
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 06:42 AM
  #39  
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From: Top Secret....
Bump it up
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 06:58 AM
  #40  
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by the sounds of what you have said so far you're probably better off to pay a shop to build and install everything for you...im not trying to be a dick but taking the cheapest way out possible on an engine is your biggest mistake. spend the money and do it right the first time (everyones advice on here that is accurate is bc they have or know someone that has blown a few motors by buying cheap parts or screwing up sopmewhere along the line)
my advice is:
1 find a company that isnt trying to sell you on there product but rather proves there engines work time and time again
2 has good customer service
3 does there own R&D instead of copying other peoples ideas/parts
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 07:08 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by mullen
by the sounds of what you have said so far you're probably better off to pay a shop to build and install everything for you...im not trying to be a dick but taking the cheapest way out possible on an engine is your biggest mistake. spend the money and do it right the first time (everyones advice on here that is accurate is bc they have or know someone that has blown a few motors by buying cheap parts or screwing up sopmewhere along the line)
my advice is:
1 find a company that isnt trying to sell you on there product but rather proves there engines work time and time again
2 has good customer service
3 does there own R&D instead of copying other peoples ideas/parts
This is very good advice.

For what it's worth, I have over 6,000 miles on my built 2.4L, standard rod length. I have don't run oil squirters and have had zero issues. The car has also never been to the drag strip or the road course, so keep that in mind.

Trust me, I'm a doctor. (seewhatididthere?)

-Acree
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 07:25 AM
  #42  
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From: Top Secret....
You guys are right, I would prefer to have someone build the motor, I'm just trying to explore all the options before hand. Peace of mind will be a big part of the build
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 07:32 AM
  #43  
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From: the moon
exactly, do a ton of research and find the RIGHT motor for YOU and what youre going to use it for...
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 07:36 AM
  #44  
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dpending on your location id recommend Buschur or English racing, and not because i run there parts but bc these companies are simply badass...not to mention they both make kickass 2.4 liters. Look up rogue on here or highboost, br 2.4l and fp black (pump gas monster)
and here is a siiiiiick hta green 2.4l build from ER http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiJR5JtQF-U
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 07:51 AM
  #45  
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^ Freaking idiot, You can tell by that guys hand position and death grip on the wheel he has no business driving through corners on his way to church on sunday, much less 'spirited' driving on a roadway.

Im starting the process of building a 2.4, having MAP do all the work, their massive experience and results with the 2.4 speak for themselves. Itll be worth the extra pennys to have someone do it thats been there and seen that before!
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