Hey Everyone!

I have a few questions about the 2,4LR. I'm looking to upgrade from my stock motor to a bigger "more displacement" setup. I'm petty much locked in on the 2,4 for a few reasons. One, the car is my daily driver, and I don't want the down time of sending out my motor for a core. Two, I like the reviews people are giving about the torque and general good DD characteristics.

So now come my questions,
I'm kind of curious as to what the total " in the car and running " cost will be. I'm wondering if anyone who runs this motor or anyone who builds this motor can chime in and hook me up with that info. I also understand that it will depend on what parts I choose for the build. I'm just looking for a general ballpark, not down to the last cent.
I have read also that some head work is required to make the head work with this block. What exactly does the " head work required " consist of?
One thing that I am also wondering, is this a " plug and play " motor? I mean out with the old block in with the new, plug in some wires and off down the road? I know it wont be quite that easy, I'm talking more like motor mounts and axles and stuff like that.
Lastly, will the stock ECU be compatible with this motor or will this force my hand and make me get a Haltech or AEM?

Anyways sorry this is so long, thanks for any help this great community can provide!!!!

 

Bump

 

yea its a direct bolt in motor. wiring is still the same. you just need a modified water pump or a water pump spacer. Total cost if you do the labor yourself couldnt cost more than $3500 up and running with fluids etc.

If i was you i would do a 1.012CH piston with 159mm rods so you can rev it out even higher than the other Long rod 2.4's

 

Good info, I'll check into it.

 

+2

No real extra cost beyond the modified water pump and running line for mivec if you are a Evo IX. Stock ECU is fine. Besides the cost of labour which could vary the total cost I spent was about 3500ish. Manly Turbo Tuff rods (LR) and Mahle Custom pistions (10.5:1). And i also included a crank scraper, Buchurs baffled oil pan and oil squirters (all of which isn't needed).
Good luck.

 

I have read on here that people think that not having oil squirters is the down fall of this motor, are they really required or is it all just preferable?

 

Theres a lotttttt of debate on the oil squirters. Theyre good insurance thats for sure, but, apparently arent needed unless youre road racing.

 

I won't be doing doing any road racing, I might beat on it occasionally or maybe put the beat down on some v8s now and then but no heavy track duty

 

But I want to make sure its done right, that's why I'm asking all these questions

 

contact english racing. q

 

For the cost of it, it was a "why the hell not" mod. It certainly doesn't hurt and the cost was so small I figured why not. Same with the crank scrapper and the baffled oil pan. It won;t hurt and the theory behind the part is sound.

Oil squirters not being installed I think was a keeping costs down thing.

 

Good point, a little more $$ for peace of mind couldn't hurt

 

Anyone know anything about the required head work? What does that all entail?

 

I was not told about any "required head work" from the machine shop that did my work.

 

how high can one of these motors rev to?