ok so here's my problem...
i recently rebuilt the motor and everything went fine... but i had to take off my oil pump to fix a small oil leak since my gasket didn't seat correctly...
so i proceeded to drain the oil and to my surprise it came out grey looking...like if anyone ever seen a pair of cool grey jordans.... THAT color... so i open the oil cap and had plenty of milky residue in there...
now i'm a bit confused because i changed oil like 3 times in 1k miles for various reasons... turbo install/oil change/ fixing an oil pan issue... and oil was fine at all times but this time it's milky...
the ONLY difference i had since the last oil drain was adding a catch can... with the STM fittings on the valve cover... i even went as far as to pull the head off to see if the head gasket blew but it was fine... so now i'm a bit confused and wondering if anyone has any trouble shooting pointers...
it's an evo9 fully built motor with a fp black...

 

Which head studs are you using? Head may be lifting under boost.

 

i had ARP... but that's the thing... i was still breaking the motor in...
also one of my freeze plugs had popped out in the front of the motor and i had it replaced... can that have done anything to the coolant passages in my block?

 

This is just something to throw out there but, Why was the freeze plug popped out? Did you have the correct coolant mixture? I only ask because I see you live in NY and if the coolant froze and pushed that plug out, worst case senario is that it cracked the block somewhere where oil and water are seperated. Like I said, thats pretty out there but I have seen it happen a number of times up here in ND.

Do you know if it popped out while driving? If so the head may be warped due to lack of coolant in the engine, and that could cause the oil/water mix you were seeing. It could be a lot of things but that sounds a little strange to me that the plug would just pop out without some motivation, ie. frozen coolant.

 

Get rid of the ARP studs.

 

I agree with 9SecSLC, get some better studs. However if you say you were breaking it in, and werent getting into boost much, head studs shouldnt be an issue at the moment.

 

A few things-- when you rebuilt the motor did you have the block decked and the head resurfaced ?...This should have been the minimum done. The freeze plug blew out because you blew the headgasket and were pressurizing the block. The oil is gray because water is mixed with it.
If you put the studs in corrctly then the name brand wont matter as long as they were torqued correctly--so check that on reassebly--If i am not mistaken you torque to more then factory spec so check the ARP site or this forum.

 

the plug did pop out due to incorrect mixture... but i drained the oil before i put the new plug in cause i did my turbo swap the same day... then again there was no coolant to mix in with the oil...
i rebuilt the motor due to a spun bearing... i never blew a head gasket so wasn't aware that i had to deck the head/block since i had it inspected and was told it wasn't needed...
and the last thing is since when are ARP bad head studs... i mean i know they came out with the L19 but i used standard ARPs on cars making MORE power then my untuned evo and never had issues...

i really hope i didnt crack anything but the more i think about it i think i did... which sucks...how can i check... would i have to disassemble the block again and have it looked at...

 

ARP's standard studs should be torqued in 3 even steps to 80 ft-lbs

 

that was done...
also my defi guage never went over 190 for temp...

 

First of all Im sorry if I came off saying ARP's were bad... They most definitely arent, I have them in my Evo. However, running a black, most people use a stronger stud than the standards. And I'm sorry but yes, the only for sure way to check for cracks is to get the block inspected, and most likely Magnafluxed (one time you can be thankful for your iron block! )... It sucks but its the only way to properly check for cracks in the block. The head could also be cracked, if the coolant froze, and in that case you would need that inspected as well, but that will be more expensive due to the fact that Magnafluxing wont work because its an aluminum head.

 

OK, but when did you note the freeze plug missing? If you drove it on say, Monday, all was fine, but that night the freeze plug popped out and you did your work on Tuesday, then found the plug out... It would be too late.

 

You dont neccessarily need to deck the block and head if they are within spec. Just make sure both surfaces are clean.You can use a brake cleaner or equivalent that leaves no residue.

 

Also, I should add that a blown head gasket, although possible, USUALLY wont pop a freeze plug out, it will simply force more coolant through the radiator cap. Most radiator caps are around 15psi, and it takes a hell of a lot more than that to pop out a freeze plug... Not trying to offend, just so thats clear.

 

honestly... drove the car... and like 2 day later realized it was missing but i didnt drive the car since it popped out...